UKH

I’ve not climbed on the Southern Sandstone much but had an enjoyable day yesterday. With my girlfriend’s parents living 10 mins from Harrison’s, and being on the come-back from a bad injury, I can see myself there quite a bit more in the future. 

Anyway, I was mucking about on Hangover 3 (7a) but the rope (set up on a 240 sling on the anchor above) was coming way too far down the layback crack side of the buttress to allow me to go around the nose safely - just wondering what the usual set up is for top roping this route?

I think you had the rope set up right but missed flicking it over a flake before heading round the nose. When I did it I had the rope coming down over the starting hold. You make the first move, get comfy, then move the rope over a flake (the one you're holding?). Then as you head round the nose the rope will follow you enough to protect the next few moves. Hope that makes sense

Yeah, it does. I think my gf was just being a bit over cautious with the tension, what with me recovering from a broken leg etc, which made it hard to do the flicking. Still, the rope scars above that have been cemented over indicate there is a way to get the rope down the nose direct (though possibly this is not a good idea precisely because of the rubbing effect on the rock)

When we've done it and seen others do it we put the rope over the "front" rather than the payback side.

Does kinda depend on the variation you climb but the less direct version goes round then up which will then follow the rope.

Just be careful of the swing if you don't latch the first couple of moves.

Cheers! Yeah will take some pads for the first move I think just to be safe.