Had a go on this the other evening but was running out of daylight so bailed. Where does pitch 2 go, found it well confusing compared to the old guide book description? Belayed off the Spike and gear in the break after pitch 1, then tried to go up and then hard right directly to the second spike but this seemed a bit wierd. Ended up down climbing and bailing due to the lack of light.
Do you go direct above the first spike completely avoiding using holds close to the second spike in the right?
Going back Sunday for another go I'd dry so any beta appreciated!
I have done it a couple of times over the years, and done pitch 2 slightly differently each time. When I led it, from the belay, you can lasso the spike up to the right and climb diagonally up and right to it, quite tricky, quite safe though. The second time I did it my mate led that pitch, he went directly up from the belay before making a sort of controlled fall rightwards to better holds, that seemed harder than the way I did it, up right to the metal spike. So take your pick ! I took a big lob off the top of the crux pitch, missed a good pocket foothold which did me in, was a safe dive into space below. Great route, good luck !...And let us know how you got on....
I seconded it just a month ago . My mate belayed on gear in the horizontal break beneath the iron spike. He climbed up and slightly left of the spike (gear was the spike and poor a poor piece far left of jt ) then the crux was a slab move back right above the spike to a hidden gold crimp. From here it's a stretch to clip the second spike and a cruise