UKH

I'm looking to book a few days off to try Am Buachaille.

Am I right in thinking that you can only access it at low tide and for how long is it accessible? Also does the size of the tide make much difference?

I don't think the size of the tide really matters. At low tide the channel is only about 8m wide, but, you will need to swim one direction when it is higher. We swam out maybe 30m max in two steps between rocks at maybe 1/2 tide and back at low tide. I would strongly recommend the E1 Atlantic Wall, which is excellent climbing on good rock rather than the original route or variation which friends have had a nasty time on (even backed off) due to the rock quality. The attached photo is the swim out.

Thanks for the advice, I was talking to Leo holding who said the original route was not to be taken lightly. 

Here's a link to a recent Rucksack Club "lockdown slideshow" on an ascent of Am Buachaille including some useful approach beta

vimeo.com/408325083 

Great, I'll watch that later! 

Hi, I’ve been over a few times and would say that as long as the sea is calm you can cross at any tide really, just depends how far you mind swimming! A small area of the platform does stay out at high tide but it would be a long swim (20m maybe?). When the tide is in the water does push through the gap quite vigorously until about mid tide but after that the stack itself acts as a breakwater. A small blow up boat and a long rope works well for keeping gear dry. 

The main constraint we had is actually a section of wave washed slabs around 100 m before the stack. At high tide you can still wade across but if the sea is rough then you’d certainly be rolling the dice... 

id also second the quality of Atlantic Wall. Much safer than the VS and much more solid! The VS is good but the first pit is very bold and the first belay is dreadful! 
 

Good luck! 
S. 

Thanks for the detailed beta!

Think we're aiming for September as less midges and vomiting birds. I've got a solid team to go with and can't wait! Been itching to climb this since climbing the old man of hoy last year! 

I agree Sam. The original route is "well dodgy"

https://gwilymstarks.blogspot.com/2013/07/adventure-on-am-buchaille.html

In contrast, excellent climbing on Atlantic Wall. Plus a photo showing the channel at low tide.

I better get back climbing soon if its to be an e1. I was climbing my best ever before lockdown, but haven't pulled on since. Just waiting for a finger nail to fall off first. 

Atlantic Wall does look good, would like to do both if possible. 

I think some people confuse the original route with the landward face, which is the standard ascent route and slightly easier.