In reply to TobyA:
Thanks for the tip. To help new visitors these are our notes on the sub-extreme routes we have done that we think think are worth stars and would recommend to experienced climbers, a few which are not in the current guidebooks:
[8 Double-De-clutch VS 4c* [VS 4c; =; VS; =] (HVS 5a*) at least HVS 5a*
Excellent climbing mainly up the left side stepped arête, albeit slight artificial feeling lower down. There is a midway crux and a top crux, both tough 5a, and both well protected (the latter with wires or micro-cams in a crack round to the right), and despite the Eastern grit description only the escapable lower section is a little bold. Maybe VS 4c* for giants. Simple belay at the top ledge. Or scramble out to stakes above and right.
10.5 Funeral Crack S [S; =; =; HVD] (S 4a*) at least HS 4b*
The crack, chimney and corner system has improved with cleaning and now gives a memorable mini classic for the edge. Gaining the chimney is tricky but most fun with gymnastic moves on the wall to the left. Move up to the ledge and the upper section improves and gets harder almost all the way to the top (just watch a loose triangular flake in the corner at the very top). It’s possible to belay on the top ledge but many will prefer to scramble up and right to stakes.
[22a Numenorean Variation HS 4b*
Avoiding the short and rather artificial crux of the parent route gives a delightful, varied and balanced climb. Climb the grooves of White Rose a couple of metres higher until it’s possible to hand traverse a break rightwards to the arête. Climb this and step right to a groove and exit carefully.
[23 White Rose Flake VS 4c* [=; =; VS*; VS] (VS 4c*)
Surprisingly pleasant climbing for such a steep looking route. Gets better and slightly harder as height is gained to a superbly positioned crux finish on some weirdly unique hollow (but currently solid seeming) rock.
[24 Martini VS 4b* [HS 4b**; =; S+**; HS] (VS 4b*) at least VS 4b*
From a standing position on the right-hand block, fiddle in what runners you can and boldly pull up the steep wall to gain an easier slab. From the tree, traverse left to the big ‘booming’ flake and move up to the finishing crack just right of the arete.
26 Bianco VS 4b* [VS 4b; =; VS; =] (VS 4b*) possible VS 4b*
A lovely route with much variation possible to encourage a revisit: climb the three-stepped arete on either side, until forced right onto the finishing crack of Martini at the very top. The first tier crux is reachy (at least tough VS 4c for the short), where small cams and micro-cams are very useful to pack a shallow break. A right hand arête start gives a good V0- 4c problem and staying on the arête, on its right side, all the way to the top gives a fun HVS 5a eliminate to a crux finish. Belay at the top.
27a Filth Right S [VD; =; =; =] (HVD 4a) possible HVD 4a*
Completely independent of its neighbour climb the initial crack boldly, with some suspect rock but good holds, to a lovely wide finishing crack that is easier than it looks due to hidden delights. Belay at the top.
[33 Oak Tree Wall VS 4b** [HS 4b***; =*; S+*; HS] (VS 4b*; VS 4b**) possible VS 4b*
The climbing is very good but the precarious crux moves are dependant on standing on higher branches of the long suffering oak (to reach the handholds which allow further progress on the top wall). The tree is still surviving but for how much longer?
38 Man of God HS 4a [S 4a; =; S*; HS] (VS 4b*) at least HS 4b*
A memorable wide tester. The steep corner with the wide crack looks HVS but as often with Agden surprise holds on the walls come to the rescue. It gives sustained interest with several crux sections. If you lack the biggest cams it’s possibly VS 4b* but still only mildly bold. Usually only climbed to the tree (abseil off) but it’s not really a scramble to the top as the BMC guidebook claims: vegetated climbing with some loose rock and not recommended.
41a Campsite Capers VS 5a*
Excellent climbing with some impressive positions, just a bit eliminate at the start. Take the enjoyable twin cracks immediately right of Campsite Crack (with blinkers) and the jams above, up to and over a burly crux bulge. There is an optional belay on the spacious ledge above the arête (useful to recover cams you might need above). Take the groove and move left into Campsite Crack. Climb this for 2m and take an airy traverse right, on breaks just under the roof, to an exposed position on a small foothold on the arête (gulp!). Make an awkward series of moves up to gain a ledge and the climbing suddenly eases. Belay at the top of the climbing as per Campsite Crack.
42 Campsite Crack S** [S**; =; S-**; VD] (S 4a**; =) at least S 4a**
The big corner is a delight and certainly the best of the lower grade climbs on the crag winding up steep terrain for the grade. Take the initial corner then move right to follow the upper corner all the way. There are several crux sections on solid rock, with the hardest right at the exit. Take your time with the awkward-to-arrange belay.
44m Cock o’ the North S [=; =; S*; S] (S 4a) at least HS 4b*
The right side of the wall has a series of parallel thin cracks under a tree. Start at a low rock ledge, just left, and move up and right to the cracks and climb these delicately (crux) to some arboreal manoeuvres. A slightly tricky chimney section gains the easier corner above. At the top of the chimney its best to take the Spring Lamb Dopiaza finish (at no increase in grade, but easily justifying the star): traverse 3m left on a narrow foot-ledge onto the middle of the exposed face and then go straight up with good holds and pro, finishing just left of a scooped section at the top. The normal straight up corner finish is OK but scruffy and makes the climb unbalanced. Belay possible at the top block or use a stake back and left.
[45 Spring Lamb Dopiaza VS 4c possible VS 4c*
Very unlikely-looking, quality climbing and only slightly eliminate. Start as for Cock of the North but climb straight up from the low ledge with hard initial moves and follow a line of partly hidden slots, edges and breaks on the wall left of the tree until the overlap. Move right here to climb the short chimney and back left on a narrow ledge into a great position in the middle of the face. If you have done the finish for the previous route a slightly harder variation, more in keeping for VS, goes up the face just right, direct to a top scooped section where holds are a bit sloping. Belay possible at the top block or use a stake back and left.
[47 Briggs’ and Titterton’s HVS 5b** [HVS 5a*; =; VS+*; VS] (HVS 5b*; =) possible HVS 5a**
The thin crack gives sustained enjoyable climbing without ever becoming too serious thanks to useful holds appearing on the side walls. Stake belay above.
[48 The Whittler VS 4c* [=***; =*; VS**; VS] (VS 4c**; =*) at least VS 4c**
A really delightful and well protected wall climb, low in both grades. Initially steep and bouldery then a long section of sustained delicate exploration, where progress is always easier than it might first look and some surprising holds, leads eventually a grassy niche with a tree. Climb the groove above or move out on the arête on the right to finish. It’s also possible to climb the twin crack 5a finish of Lemon Squeezy. Stake belay above.
[48a Gordon’s Climb [VS 4c; VS; =; =] possible VS 4c**
This lovely variant on Whittler was stupidly left out from 2006 guide? Climb the main line for 10m until a wide break on the right is at chest height. Traverse excitingly rightwards on good hand and foot holds to gain an exposed hanging groove-line. This gives more quality climbing until just below the scrappy exit slot on the right. It’s also possible to traverse right slightly lower (hands at the level of the break)… harder and bolder. Belay possible at the top block or use a stake back and left.
[58 SOS VS 4b* [=; =; VS**; VS] (VS 4b*) at least VS 4c**
A long and exciting expedition, with some great rock scenery, up the far left of the main wall. High in both VS and 4c grades. The undercut starting groove is good fun unless you miss the trick (when it can be gruelling). Good climbing leads up the wall towards the tree, moving slightly right at the amazing rock finger, to gain the sandy cave ledge to the right of the tree (possible belay.. or sling extend ropes to keep them off the tree). Move out left on the ledge to a beefy corner layback and hope the good holds at the top arrive soon enough! From the next ledge, finish rightwards (possible but loose directly above). The topo lines are wrong in both 2006 and Eastern Grit guidebooks!!
