Advice: First time grade 6 in Portland

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 sabostar 14 May 2020

I'm feeling close to being ready to have a go at my first outdoor grade 6, and so the only way to find out is to have a go!

Portland is close to me with lots of options, and while I know that due to different climbing strengths and weaknesses, one grade 6 can be easy for one climber and impossible for another, I wondered if anyone had any suggestions for a good grade 6 to start with?

My endurance isn't great, and I'm getting on a bit, but I'm keen to set myself a target to work towards once we get past these difficut times.

Any thoughts much appreciated!

 peppermill 14 May 2020
In reply to sabostar:

You're overthinking it dude! Pick one that looks fun in the guidebook or at the crag and have a go! I'd go for a cool looking line with sensibly spaced bolts so you're not worrying about a massive fall and can just enjoy the climbing.

Have fun! ;p

Gone for good 14 May 2020
OP sabostar 14 May 2020
In reply to peppermill:

Thanks! 

OP sabostar 14 May 2020
In reply to Gone for good:

Thanks and duly noted. As mentioned this is something I'm looking to do when we are ok to go climbing again. There is no harm in dreaming right now!

 Derry 14 May 2020
In reply to sabostar:

Some of my favourites:

Pinch an Inch (6a)

For Michèle (6a)

Fear's Younger Brother (6a)

If you want some shorter routes, and low in the grade there are a few in Dungecroft quarry, but aren't classics. 

OP sabostar 14 May 2020
In reply to Euan McKendrick:

Looks good! My palms got sweaty looking at the photos!

I was also looking at Hanging out with halo jones on the veranda which looks quite short and doable.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/battleship_back_cliff-265/hanging_...

OP sabostar 14 May 2020
In reply to Derry:

Thanks - added to my wish list. I'll have to have a wander around and look at the route.

 Fishmate 14 May 2020
In reply to sabostar:

My first 6a!

Also try Julia and Rai at Cheyne Weares, both very low (3 maybe 4 bolts?). Neither are a stressful outing!

1
 Cyrees 14 May 2020
In reply to sabostar:

I'd tend to agree you shouldn't overthink it. But that being said the following are all excellent:

Monsoon Malabar (6a)

The Price of Silence (6a)

Meg's Got Leukaemia (6a)Pregnant Pause (6a+)Cake Walk (6a+)

 Pete 14 May 2020
In reply to sabostar:

In my opinion one of the best 6a's and certainly one of the easiest is Shit Happens Actually.  Horrible name, but delightful route on Blacknor North.  Always used to use it as a warm up route.  Much softer touch than a lot of the others.

 monkey man 15 May 2020
In reply to Pete:

Agreed, very enjoyable route

 Rockmonkey1977 15 May 2020
In reply to sabostar:

+1 for shit happens actually,

Still one of my favourite routes on the island.

OP sabostar 15 May 2020
In reply to sabostar:

Thanks for all the advice. Shit happens actually is looking like a winner. I'll have a look, thanks!


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