DSLRs and filters

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 The Potato 04 Apr 2023

I took my DSLR out today on an easy mountain walk fitted with 12-24 lens (crop sensor), I also used a ND gradient filter, but after sitting down to process them I wondered if there was much point using a gradient filter any more as software editing has come on so much.
Using filters just seems to be another layer of potential image degradation. 
I can still see a place for ND Fstop filters and CPL in some conditions.
What do you think?

Post edited at 19:49
 Green Porridge 04 Apr 2023
In reply to The Potato:

I guess where an ND gradient filter can be useful is to prevent you blowing out the sky when taking a landscape in a single shot. You could always lighten it up a bit afterwards if you need to, but once those highlights are blown you can't get that information back. You could take multiple shots and make an hdr image, but then you need multiple shots. 

A polariser to make the clouds pop a bit more, means you don't have to mess around in post. 

I guess it's horses for courses. Some people like spending time on the computer, have the skill set and find that a rewarding part of the hobby, others want to challenge themselves to get results straight from the camera. Still others drag a medium format or glass plates into the hills. Do what makes you happy

 jethro kiernan 04 Apr 2023
In reply to The Potato:

There is still a place for filters, you’re correct modern digital has a lot of leeway but a good quality clean filter can help with skys

 timparkin 04 Apr 2023
In reply to Green Porridge:

> I guess where an ND gradient filter can be useful is to prevent you blowing out the sky when taking a landscape in a single shot. You could always lighten it up a bit afterwards if you need to, but once those highlights are blown you can't get that information back. You could take multiple shots and make an hdr image, but then you need multiple shots. 

> A polariser to make the clouds pop a bit more, means you don't have to mess around in post. 

> I guess it's horses for courses. Some people like spending time on the computer, have the skill set and find that a rewarding part of the hobby, others want to challenge themselves to get results straight from the camera. Still others drag a medium format or glass plates into the hills. Do what makes you happy

I drag medium format, 5x4 and 10x8 into the hills but when I use a DSLR, I don't use grads for walking in the hills (bracket +/- 2 stops with an offset of underexposure by a stop) but I do if I'm doing dedicated photography where I carry lots of high quality glass graduated filters.. (H&Y K100 set)

 tehmarks 14 Apr 2023
In reply to The Potato:

If the dynamic range of the scene exceeds the capabilities of your camera you (ideally) need a way of reducing it before you record it; image processing software can do wonders these days, but it can't bring back information that was never there to begin with. Otherwise you're going to have to choose between losing detail in the shadows or losing detail in the highlights.

(Either of which may also be acceptable depending on what you're hoping to achieve)

And all that said, if I were going for a walk with a camera rather than going out with the express intent of doing landscape photography, I wouldn't bother. I'd try to find creative solutions to any dynamic range problems that presented themselves.

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 Marek 14 Apr 2023

> ... Otherwise you're going to have to choose between losing detail in the shadows or losing detail in the highlights.

Or you just bracket-n-blend. Most of the time that's far more flexible than using ND grads with a one dimensional gradient.

OP The Potato 16 Apr 2023
In reply to Marek:

Not quite as catchy as drop n roll, but still works


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