Picture Framing

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 The New NickB 24 Jan 2023

I’ve got a picture that I need framing. I took it to the place that I have been using for the last few years and it has closed down. That is now four different framers in the local area that I have used over the last 20 years, that have closed down. I get the impression that it isn’t very economically viable as a business these days.

I was wondering about doing it myself, just for my own purposes. Has anyone any experience of this? What equipment is needed? Can it be bought relatively cheaply? Can an amateur get a good finish with a little practice and care?

I typically get a few pictures framed in a year, but would do more (rather than buying standard size frames off the shelf) and perhaps give a few as gifts, if I had the kit to do it myself.

 Tyler 24 Jan 2023
In reply to The New NickB:

There are lots of online alternatives which are probably the reason your local ones have closed down. They are significantly cheaper as long as you get the measurements correct….

I’m not sure whether you would consider it local but the one in Waterfoot was still open 18 months ago and did a great job.

Post edited at 15:27
 Ridge 27 Jan 2023

In reply to BruceWoods:

You don't, by some fluke of fate, happen know where Nick can obtain the requisite materials?

 Wingnut 27 Jan 2023
In reply to Ridge:

If you google for "picture frame moulding" (the moulding is the decorative bit that forms the actual frame), then that may be helpful in terms of finding people who can sell you materials rather than just framing it for you?

(Not got any recommendations for who's currently good, unfortunately - my Dad used to do picture framing as a sideline, but that was a good few years ago!)

 deacondeacon 27 Jan 2023
In reply to The New NickB:

Picture Framing is fairly straightforward but is quite time consuming. Cutting the mount can be tricky until you get the hang of it.

They're satisfying to do, but youll soon realise why picture frames can be quite pricey 🙂

 AllanMac 27 Jan 2023
In reply to The New NickB:

Good specialist framing equipment is expensive, and fiddling about with mitre saws and routers is frustratingly hit and miss. But maybe that's me being impatient and cack-handed, so I prefer to leave it to the experts.

You can get most bespoke sizes and mouldings of frame online, and if you need card mounts/aperture dimensions cut to fit a particular photo or painting, these people are good:

https://pictureframesdirect.co.uk/mount-builder/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAic6eBhCoARIs...

They have a reasonable range of mouldings and mount colours to choose from, and you can even superimpose your photo image inside the frame on screen before you buy.

 Chris Haslam 27 Jan 2023
In reply to The New NickB:

I've never nailed my own frame together but I have messed about with the other parts of the process, here are my findings:

- I started with off the shelf frames from Ikea or Amazon, finding the size that fits best, then cutting the mount to suit the picture. 

- to cut the mount neatly you need a dedicated mount cutter. Jakar seem to make the most common one, it works together with a special grooved ruler. I bought my parts from ebay as they are not the cheapest when new. I tried using a hand blade, and then tried using the mount cutter with a normal ruler - both yielded poor results. 

- I've bought mount board from a local framing shop but I think you can get it from somewhere like Hobbycraft. Be prepared to cock up the first couple!

- I use a roll of wide framing tape to fix the image to the back of the mount. This is a bit like masking tape but brown and made for the job. 

- I have used an online bespoke frame and mount supplier which was significantly cheaper than using a framing shop but obviously you need to add the image yourself.  The results were good. 

TIP:  the little flat nails you get in the back of Ikea and other frames, the ones you bend up and down to get the hardboard out, sometimes break or fall out with use but you can buy more they are called 'push points' or 'glaziers points'

 Sayon 27 Jan 2023
In reply to The New NickB:

The answer is- it depends! Larger frames will need pinning at the corners- it's a simple job with the right machine but not worth buying for the occasional framing job. 

The mount (assuming you need one) can be cut with a small handheld cutter as long as you have a good straight edge. Daler rowney used to sell these. 

Framing is usually sold in a  long (few meters) length,  it is probably a good bit more expensive buying singly than buying in bulk. 

It is something you can do yourself; corner clamps for gluing make the job a whole lot easier. 

Ive done my own framing,  paid others to do it,  and have had mixed results. 

As a cheaper alternative you can buy a larger used frame you like(with disposable picture)and  cut to size. 

Not sure where you're based,  there's a very good supplier of framing materials in central Birmingham (Lion).

Finally,  if you go ahead,  don't forget to make the lower part of the mount deeper than the upper part,  otherwise it looks like the picture is sliding out of the frame! Good luck. 

 Slackboot 27 Jan 2023
In reply to The New NickB:

I have worked as a Picture Framer for many years and I must have framed tens of thousands of pictures.

 With the equipment we have at work you can frame things quickly and efficiently. Morso guillotine to chop the mitres, foot operated Underpinner to join the mitred corners to each other. Electronic mount cutter, an amazing invention! Framing Point guns that fire different types of 'nails' into the back. Acid free tapes and mountboard along with different kinds of glass to protect the artwork.

The people who earn money from framing at home all have a Morso and an Underpinner. They usually cut their mounts with a manual cutter though.

One of the problems of doing it at home would be the cost of materials I suppose. There are companies who will deliver to your door but as has been mentioned you will pay a lot more for small quantities. There is also a lot of wastage in picture framing. 

I can't really offer any advice about framing at home save that I didn't like doing it without all the equipment mentioned above. But it can definitely be done if you really want to.

If I were to get any of my own drawings framed I would rather take them to a Picture Framer than do them at home. But I suppose I would say that!

 Slackboot 27 Jan 2023
In reply to The New NickB:

Just a few more bits...

 1) Cut the mitres with a tenon saw and mitre block or a n electric table saw where you can set the blade at 45°.

2) Without an Underpinner you will have to glue the mitres and put two small pins in from the side of each corner.

3) If you use corner clamps you may get away without using the 'pins' mentioned above but it will not be as strong.

4) We use Toyo glass cutters at work. They are the 'dry' ones as in not oil filled.

5) Use 2mm MDF for the back board. Put mountboard between the mdf and the picture as the mdf has acids in it which will damage the work over time.

6) Can't advise on cutting mounts by hand as have never done it but the hand held mountcutters are crap. Get one mounted on a board.

7) Float glass is the default choice. It is about 2 mm thick and comes in 4'x3' sheets. It is clear. You can get 6'x4' sheets though. Window glass is 4mm thick generally so picture framing glass is much lighter. Other glass includes Diffused (non reflective) and others with UV filtering properties. They cost about 5 times more. Perspex (styrene) is the other alternative. About 1.2 mm thick, light, safe, but scratches and more expensive than Float glass.

8) Acid free ph 770 is best tape for attaching paper to mounts. Just 2 bits at top. Not right round. Otherwise the same stuff you use to seal up the back. Don't use masking tape though. It will dry out and your picture will slip eventually.

9) Without a gun for firing framers points into the back of the frame you will have to tap them or small pins in with a hammer.

10) Sealing the back with tape is important as it adds to the overall strength of the construction as well as keeping dust out. The best tape is Tesa brown Kraft tape. It seems to adhere more and more to the back as time goes on. It is expensive though. Otherwise a more economical choice is brown Eco tape which a lot of framers use.

11) Mountboard is generally cream core or white core in quality. There are different coloured cores too. Cream core is cheapest and has a buffer to stop acids touching artwork. White core has had acids bleached out and is a good choice for more expensive works of art. Archival cotton rag mountboards are the most expensive. They have never had any paper harming acids in them. Loads of makes of mountboard offering loads of colours.

Think I am rambling now.

Oh! and use 'D'rings rather than screw eyes for stringing the cord on the back. If it is a very thin frame put the D rings in the mdf  backboard with a bifurcated rivet. Also use proper picture framing cord and not normal string to hang. Should cost about 30p a metre from a shop. D rings (or screw eyes if you use them) are placed about 1/3 down from the top of the picture. Not halfway . Cord is stronger than picture wire. If you can get the tension a simple overhand knot is best for  tying cord. Don't tie at either end. Loop through rings and tie in middle.

Post edited at 19:37
 GMohr 28 Jan 2023
In reply to Slackboot:

Morso Guillotine is the business. So satisfying to use, I did some of the door architrave for our house with mine. Overkill but perfect mitres. 

G

In reply to AllanMac:

Plus one for this lot.  Not cheap though. Was about 110 for a 1200 x 500 all in. Good quality.

 Bob Kemp 29 Jan 2023
In reply to Slackboot:

Re 6) Can't advise on cutting mounts by hand as have never done it but the hand held mountcutters are crap. Get one mounted on a board.

I wish someone had told me this before I wasted fifteen quid on one of those Jakar mount cutters - I still can't get a decent cut out of it despite wasting a few sheets of mount card. But it's a big jump to an affordable board mounted one - the cheapest I've seen is an Olfa one for about £50, then you get the smallest Logan, which is around £140. 

 Slackboot 30 Jan 2023
In reply to Bob Kemp:

Just had a look on ebay for you. Nothing there but those Jakar ones and expensive mounted ones. 

It's probably worth the money and lack of hassle to get a picture framer to cut them for you. 

 Neston Climber 30 Jan 2023
In reply to The New NickB: If you ever spend time in Llanberis there is an excellent framing service around the lake by Vivian quarry. 

Highly recommended. 

https://www.fframia.com/

 Rob Parsons 30 Jan 2023
In reply to Bob Kemp:

> Re 6) Can't advise on cutting mounts by hand as have never done it but the hand held mountcutters are crap. Get one mounted on a board.

> I wish someone had told me this before I wasted fifteen quid on one of those Jakar mount cutters - I still can't get a decent cut out of it despite wasting a few sheets of mount card. But it's a big jump to an affordable board mounted one - the cheapest I've seen is an Olfa one for about £50, then you get the smallest Logan, which is around £140. 

On the other hand: I have one of the Jakar mount cutters, and have used it successfully and without problems for many years, making all sorts of mounts. Maybe I am just lucky, but I have never had a single failure or problem.

 Bob Kemp 30 Jan 2023
In reply to Slackboot:

Thanks for looking for me. I'm certainly considering the professional road, but I could need a lot of mats so the DIY approach has attractions. 

 Bob Kemp 30 Jan 2023
In reply to Rob Parsons:

Maybe I just need more practice. I find the blades (new) aren't quite as sharp as I'd like and stick in the card, so I end up using too much force and getting uneven cuts or overshooting. What weight of mount card do you use?

 Fredt 30 Jan 2023
In reply to The New NickB:

I've given up looking for framers, and framing stuff myself.
Now I manage by trawling charity shops for pictures.
The pictures are usually terrible, but the frames are often very good.
I've picked up several really good frames over the last year or so, for only a few quid.
Its very satisfying to walk out of the shop with exactly the frame you need for £4.

In reply to The New NickB:

A pity you're not near Belper, because we have an absolutely excellent picture framer called Hall of Frames. Very good value and done to the highest standards using state of the art German equipment.

 Slackboot 30 Jan 2023
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Many years ago I used to deliver picture framing materials to a Framers in Belper. I remember it being near the town square ( in my memory anyway) and it was run by a lady. It wasn't Hall of Frames though. Just wondered if she is still there?

In reply to Slackboot:

i think Hall of Frames has only been here for about 15 years (but it is near the market place).  But I don't think it can be the same place. The people running it are quite young.

 NorthernGrit 30 Jan 2023
In reply to The New NickB:

While you might save a couple of quid online for standard sizes having recently framed some odd shaped prints there wasn't much in it between my local art shop and online. I'd rather spend the extra couple of quid.

Also make sure you're comparing like for like. Don't price a painted mdf frame online and get a shop to quote you for ebony......

Post edited at 15:12
 Rob Parsons 30 Jan 2023
In reply to Bob Kemp:

> ... What weight of mount card do you use?

I use the standard Daler-Rowney mount boards, bought from an art shop.

 Bob Kemp 30 Jan 2023
In reply to Rob Parsons:

Same here - I wonder where I’m going wrong?


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