UKH

https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2020/may/26/10-of-the-best-books-about-m...

Any significant omissions?

Well, the writer has said she is specifically steering clear of the hardcore macho stuff, so no Joe Simpson etc.
But still, maybe one of the Tilman or Shipton books? Nanda Devi? 

And picnic on mt Kenya is a bit special too 

edit: I see both are mentioned in the user comments

There's a notable absence of heavyweight biography. I'd also have expected Fiennes to make an appearance

It might have been disqualified as too hardcore but I really enjoyed the evocation of the whole Everest region, pre guiding circus, in Wade Davis’s book “Into the Silence”

On a lighter note I offer you "The Ascent of Rum Doodle" by WE Bowman.

Of all the books I see as a page-turner for the casually interested reader, I think Tom Patey's book would be the one