UKH

Hi. Firstly sorry again I mainly ask about none climbing house stuff.

So our house had EPC f when we brought it. In order to access the rhi it needs to be better (d I think) The main problem bringing EPC down is that we heat via a coal Rayburn it has loft insulation, double glazed etc..  as an aside we are having solar installed and I'm assuming this will bring it to an e at least? Does anybody have any experience of this? The reason I ask is that in order to access the rhi incentives you need a reasonable EPC unless I've misunderstood and so if we want to get rid of the coal heating do we fit a biomass boiler, then get an EPC and apply for rhi or do we need to get it down to a d and then do the biomass install to access the rhi?

"Chicken and egg I guess"

Cheers as always for the wisdom of this group. Matt

Can't offer any advice but it seems ridiculous of you can't access the rhi to get a better EPC rating unless you get a better EPC rating!

Yeah I'm probably wrong.. but you never know as.i know they do try and incentivise things in a certain order. Loft insulation, double glazing etc first

Find a decent assessor, they'll assess what you have now, then they can hypothetically add and remove different options, depending on points it will show you which level it pushes you up to. 

The EPC must be D after the installation of the RHI relevant item.

We were an E and added solar thermal, LED lighting, extra loft insulation, to get D.

The E was from house purchase, the D was from the assessor supplied by our installer a month later.

Unless it's changed, some bonkers things with EPC and recommendation - we don't have TRVs on radiators as it's not normal with ASHP (each room is sized to a thermal model) as you don't want to have big changes in water temperature. We have them just in case in bedrooms and lounge (due to stove) but they still put it as recommendation. The other was to install floor insulation - which is impractical.

Brill thanks for your response. That makes  more sense. Matt

Matt,

You do NOT need a D grade EPC for the RHI.

You just need an EPC under 2 years old that does not recommend cavity wall or loft insulation improvements.

Also, do not assume that your EPC is even slightly accurate.  The one we got when we moved in was utterly wrong in lots of very basic facts (like the type of fuel for our central heating) - it had clearly been thrown together from the outside in five minutes flat.

I think historically many were written off site, with many assumptions. Newer ones have to be on site, they are done via a live linked app, each item needs supporting evidence of a photo etc... submitting before it allows the assessor move on. 

This seems true now, not sure of it changed but it seems they also accept EPC from before the new hearing system is installed - ie still showing the old system.

We have solid walls/ rubble filled very thick things does that mean we are a blanket no then? I will contact a supplier and see what they say.  Rhi applications end march 2022 so will have to get a move on I guess. Seems a no brainer really and crazy that they pay so much.

I got that impression and base.my decisions regarding improvements on that I always considered EPC although well meaning a race to the bottom, who can provide a piece of paper to satisfy the solicitors. Many years ago a company I was acquainted with were rubbing their hands together  when a scheme called 'decent homes' came in and they would assess how naff a council or social housing was. The main thing I caught was how.many could be done in a day and how profitable rather than what difference it would make to those that needed it.

Yeah. I know someone who does them. The system and accreditation has improved some what in the last few years. As the requirements for rental properties have increased they've been to reassess properties that were done by others at the beginning, they are full of errors which could only come from not attending and writing surveys based on a glance at the Estate agents descriptions or Google Street View. Houses written up as bungalows, stone houses as brick, endless assumptions about windows, flooring, lofts..  as they likely never stepped in the door. 

I think now there can't be much money in them, must be easily 2-3hrs work if done properly from scratch. Shame really, uk housing is dire in terms of energy efficiency, it could turn things around if applied well. 

It just means you need to have you loft insulation done, nothing else, and you qualify. 

What boiler are you thinking of getting?

This has always been the case with the RHI. You are most likely confusing it with the old Solar FIT scheme, that required a D EPC to get the higher rate.

Ah. I used one company to install Solar PV, ASHP and solar thermal. It was all done at once, that would be why I needed to get to D. I also had to increase loft insulation for RHI anyway.

I don't know really which boiler. I think they all look a bit ugly to be honest. It's to replace a rayburn so will end up in the kitchen and need to find space for a cooker too.. we have been thinking about an extension which we could incorporate a boiler room but this is not in near future. I need to make some quick decisions as rhi ends next march but I've already brought the coal for the winter. Any recommendations appreciated.

Its hard to say for sure what would suit you.  I was only really asking in case you were about to get a nonsense one.

They are a bit like cars, you get really reliable German/Austrian ones (Windhager, ETA) and more budget Italian ones (Klover and some others).  You get what you pay for.

Windhager, ETA, KWB, are great, but generally larger utility boilers that you wouldn't really want in your Kitchen

Klover do a boiler to replace a Rayburn called the Smart 80 or 120. Looks great, not too expensive and will suit your needs.  You do need to have a separate cooker as well, as you won't always want to cook on the Klover Smart.  Only downside to the Klover is that you will have to spend more on maintaining it, however they are really simple to work with.

Make sure you use a local company to install, as they will be the ones you want to be there to maintain it.  Avoid any brand that does not have a UK presence (tech staff and parts here in the UK).

To be fair the software makes lots of assumptions based on age of property and the building regs at the time.