It's a while since I posted a story. This happened nearly 50 years ago so the memory is a bit hazy. Please excuse anything that may seem not quite right in terms of topography. Although I have been up on the ridge many times this was my only full traverse and it was long ago. This is how I remember it but I post it simply as a story. Hope you enjoy it.
The old rusty bent peg pointed at me and said "go on I dare you!" But I couldn't do it. I recoiled my rope.
We were staying in Portree with two friends who had been 'going out' together for years. We were going to try to do The Ridge in a day. The weather that week was sublime. Too hot really. It was the best I had ever seen on Skye. We started at the Glen Brittle end. The long walk in, then up onto The Ridge proper. Part way along this section my friend started to feel ill. By the time we were nearing the TD Gap he had decided to go down. He reassured me that he'd be fine and urged me to continue. So I did.
At the gap I looked at what I was proposing to solo. Absolutely no way I thought. What's more it looked like a different rock from the rough gabbro of The Ridge. It even looked a bit slippery! And that's when I noticed the climbers sitting down in the gap! They looked very dejected with their newly pulled down rope. A tell-tale piece of gear was abandoned some thirty feet above them.
It was another minor miracle. They were only too pleased to let me lead them up and out of the gap. They were happy. I was happy. After much thanking and well wishing I scurried off. I had a ridge to traverse! I was just passing the Stone Chute after racing up Alasdair when the Norman Wisdom side of my nature kicked in. I really shouldn't have left my friend to walk down alone. "He was ill" Norman said accusingly. "Anything could happen to him and it will all be your fault". Another voice joined the conversation. Hermann Buhl had turned up too! He urged me to keep going "think of the glory" he whispered. "He was only ever going to slow you down". Hermann continued, "Now's your chance!" he said. But as ever, Norman won the argument. I had to make sure my friend got back safely. What had I been thinking? I surfed down the Stone Chute and caught up with him on the path back. He seemed OK, but I felt that I had made the right decision to abort my attempt. 'Mr Grimsdale' would be proud of me!
The next day I set off from Sligachan alone. I was determined to succeed this time. When I got to the ab that would take me to the foot of Am Basteir I just couldn't commit to the rusty peg and I couldn't seem to back it up. I retraced my steps and skirted under the huge cliff. Better a live donkey than a dead lion I told myself, echoing the words of Shackleton. I liked it when HE gave me advice. The rest of The Ridge was a blur. I was super fit and I raced along it. I soloed up the In Pin and abbed down the steep side This time there were no worries about the anchor. It was a bomber!
I must have gone along Collie's Ledge but I have no memory of it. As I approached The Great Stone Chute again, Norman piped up. "Just nip down here" he teased, " You did the rest yesterday! ". Hermann bit back. " Shut up Norman! He wants to do it in a day. He wants to be a hero, just like me". The argument between the two sides of my nature raged on for a bit. But as always, Norman won in the end. As I left the small bealach and started to slide down the scree Hermann had one last dig, " It wouldn't count anyway, he's missed out some of the best bits!"
Later that week, on the last day of the holiday, our friends invited us out for "something special". I thought it was maybe a meal at a local restaurant. We were surprised to find ourselves in Portree Registry Office and I was to be Best Man. They had decided to tie the knot at last!
