/ Americans looking to climb in Glencoe next week,

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boogiman_007 - on 15 May 2019

Hello, my friend and I are visiting Scotland for the first time and looking to climb around Scotland / Glencoe, 21 May -27.

Will have rope and trad gear.

Was looking to climb north face or north buttress of Buachaille Etive Mor,  is it free of snow right now ?

we’re only bringing approach and rock shoes.

We’ll be happy to climb anything really in the 4c-5b range, single or multi pitch.

Down for meeting and climbing with any UK climbers!

Will have rental car and willing to travel.



Post edited at 04:06
TobyA on 15 May 2019
In reply to boogiman_007:

Webcams at https://discoverglencoe.scot/key-information/webcams/ are from the ski area next door to the Buachaille. Scroll down to the one called "Base Lodge 1200 ft" - the view is of the north face of the Buachaille, North Buttress is basically the right hand skyline. Looks lovely this morning and no snow at all on the steep sections. 

Of course it can snow up high in May, but its unlikely- or if it does snow its likely to go very quickly. 

Have fun. 

Rigid Raider - on 15 May 2019
In reply to boogiman_007:

My brother and I went up one of those routes back in the 70s, it's lovely climbing with stunning scenery and we are enjoying exceptionally good weather at the moment, and too early for the Caledonian Luftwaffe to be out, which is a bonus.

gman2012 on 15 May 2019
In reply to Rigid Raider:

I came up North Buttress and descended Curved Ridge a couple of weeks ago, no snow on either and temperatures have increased since then. Fine in approach shoes.

Nathan Adam - on 15 May 2019
In reply to boogiman_007:

Bludgers Revelation if Slime Wall is dry. Crows Nest Crack and Mainbrace Crack are two sustained pitches on the East Side of North Buttress that catch the morning/early afternoon sun, plenty other good pitches around there too. Easy approach up the lower part of North Buttress in about an hour. 

Easier classics on Rannoch Wall including January Jigsaw and Agags Groove. 

If Unicorn on Stob Coire nan Lochan is dry it’s worth the walk up, probably the biggest corner pitch in the UK? Plenty more to go at on Aonach Dubh as well. Best bet is to get hold of Gary Latters Scottish Rock vol.1 which covers most of the classic routes in and around Glen Coe. 

Post edited at 14:48
it624 on 15 May 2019
In reply to boogiman_007:

For clarity, what do you mean by '4c-5b'? Idk if you've climbed in the UK before, but it might be worth looking at www.rockfax.com/publications/grades/ to try and get a handle on what the grades mean


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