Alpine partner wanted - 18th to 25th aug - 4000ers / climbs

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 euanballantyne 06 Aug 2022

Hi - flying to Geneva and hoping to do a handful of 4000ers. Open to various suggestions but had planned - 3 nights ginifetti hut above gressoney, then 2 or 3 cosmique hut for Mont Blanc attempt.
happy leading to AD, and seen the press saying glacier routes a bit iffy - hence roped with a partner would be preferable!! 😄

also happy doing some lower level climbs if preferred. 

 Alfrede 06 Aug 2022
In reply to euanballantyne:

Hi Euan. I know it’s not on your original plan but I will be on my own in Grachen in the Mattertal 19-27th, en route to join the AC meet in Saas. Conditions are terrible. I was in Chamonix in early July so I know how bad it is first hand. You need to be thinking rock peaks mainly. However if there any 4000m peaks accessible around the Mattertal I would be interested. I’ve done lots there already but I think the Durrenhorn and Obergabelhorn may be accessible and they are on my hit list. Local advice on arrival will be necessary. My first trip out was curtailed by a nasty dose of Covid and I am still recovering at home but i should be fit by your dates. Keep me in mind if you can’t get anyone else. I have found a cheap dortoir in Grachen which has a good bus connection to the main valley. Good luck with your plans, Alf.

 Pero 19:11 Sun
In reply to euanballantyne:

Remember to bring your 15K deposit for Mont Blanc!

In reply to Alfrede:

Thanks for the note Alf. Just back from a few days in the Dolomites and didn’t have signal. Will check out the peaks you notes and drop you a note back. Thinking of ditching the Mont Blanc idea, but have provisionally booked 3 night at the ginifetti hut which has a fair range of 4000ers beside it (point Vincent etc…

In reply to Alfrede:

Hi again - had a chance to check those out. In my book it says the last gully up to durrenhorn can be dangerous in warm weather due to rockfall, but ober gabelhorn looks good and mainly a ridge, barring the glacier section at the start/end. I’d be up for that 19th to 21st aug weekend if you fancied? I’m on if you’d like to email me. 

 Alfrede 20:46 Thu
In reply to euanballantyne: Hi Euan. The Durrenhorn can be reached by a long rock route from the Galenjoch avoiding the couloir (which would be a death trap at the moment.) The route is in Moran guide. It is graded AD and reputedly loose but a friend of mine soloed down it after doing the Nadelgrat. Only grade 3 rock. i was considering it as a possible solo but happy to have company. Might bivvy on the Joch to avoid the hut full of Covid infection!
The Obergabelhorn might be better by the Arbengrat using the bivvy hut  to avoid the glacier, but I would want local advice about rock fall first. Unfortunately I have already done Zinalrothorn and Weisshorn though not from the Zermatt side. 
Delighted to hear from you but suggest you don’t quite commit yet.  I still have a slightly inflamed throat from Covid and won’t know if I am fit for a few days yet. I travel over tomorrow and start walking on Saturday so should know around Tue/Wed next week if I am up for Alpine routes. If you dig out another partner go with them but keep me as your plan B! I shall let you know ASP. Good luck with your first week, the Gniffeti is probably a good ploy as long as you have a partner for the glacier. By the way I am based in the Ferienhaus in Grachen which is cheap and had places available in the dortoir on last time I looked. Slightly out of the way but good bus/train connection to Zermatt. I can be contacted direct on Ciao! Alf

 Alfrede 20:50 Thu
In reply to euanballantyne:PS. I am unsure about 4000m because of the Covid recovery time but pretty certain lower objectives would be fine so if you can’t find another partner you shouldn’t be stuck.

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