UKH

Planning to head to Chamonix to walk the TMB solo in early September. Was wondering if anyone had any experience with camping later-on in the season and/or could help me out with advice on staging the walk with a heavier pack. 

I'm pretty fit (university rower) and a fairly seasoned mountaineer/hillwalker, but so many threads seem to warn people off the camping strategy (which is primarily, for me, saving money!) Any advice appreciated. 

We did it hut to hut; has to be said most of the 'normal' stages aren't too challenging (Fenetre D'Arpettes might be a bit more so with a full pack, but could be avoided); quite a lot of the way you're not very remote so wild camping might feel a little uncomfortable, given the French attitude to it. I can't remember that many official camp sites on the way but I don't suppose I was looking for them; presumably there's quite a few in the more populated areas.

I have guided the TMB many times on both hotel/hut and camping trips and I can confirm that there are commercial camp sites in every valley after descending from the cols. In some valleys there are "bivouac" sites where an overnight stop is possible. If you are really discrete it is possible to wild camp but you do tend to be in the middle of nowhere. Most people do a combination of camping and huts as in many places there are not convenient shops to restock on supplies.

Weather wise you are likely to get a mixed bag. Some years you will have snow and others superb blue sky so be prepared for anything. One benefit will be that the holiday crowds will have gone and it should be a better experience.

Keep your sac as light as possible for, although the stages are generally reasonable the cumulative effect of a heavy sac can be severe. Consider doing the trip clockwise as the climbs are generally easier other than the Arpette.

Have a great trip.

As Mike says there are plenty of official campsites but there are also lots of spots to wild camp. Just be discreet and plan a little bit ahead with regards to water for overnights.

We did it fast and light over 4 days with two wild camps and 1 campsite but there were lots of folks doing it over a week or 8 days using a mix of wild camps and campsites as suited. It is a fairly common strategy, just not one the authorities want to encourage I think.

Did you walk it over those 4 days? I'm thinking about running it over 5 days, 2 running/1 rest/2 running early this September as well.

Did you go through a company to book accommodation, or did you sort out the whole thing yourself?

We ran it.  We did it ourselves, went super light (think Mountain Marathon style) and camped where seemed appropriate at the end of a longish day.

Thanks. Was thinking of using huts/B&Bs to save on carrying camping gear.

Any websites to help with the planning that you know of? Found plenty for walking it, not so many for running.

Hi Molly. What direction are you thinking of doing it??. The usual anticlockwise way offers a bivy/camping spot above Contamine and further on as well. I camped between Courmayeur and La Fouly. A fine campsite in Champex. Plenty of options to camp near Col de Balme. If you are travelling alone then there wouldn't be a problem with a late bivy and gone in the morning. Refugio Elizabetta is also a lovely place to stay. Personally I would recommend doing it clockwise then you can camp in COl de Balme..Champex..before Courmayeur...camp near Refuge la Balme.. Enjoy.

I think most folks that run it probably use the huts to keep the weight down. Either that or enter the race and do it in a oner! 

I found a few blogs from people running it but not much. I just used the walking guide to work out distances and rough spots to camp. It was a really good fun few days.

Col de Balme is on my list for camping. It looks a bit open for discreet camping. Aren't they bothered or are there some hidey holes somewhere?

We camped a bit below it on the French side with no issues. There are a few fairly out of sight spots. Not much water when we were there though, took ages to gather enough from a wee trickle.

I have it on good authority that the refuge sells beer ...
I can just about manage an hour or so downhill to civilization with a hangover.

As Dave said there are some discreet spots on the French side. The views towards Mont Blanc are pretty special too..Just don't wander up to the refuge and ask them to fill your water bottles...if you do be prepared to RUN!!!

Beware the "Dragon Lady" refuge owner!!

Try asking for anything at Refuge du Col de Balme and you will be faced with a shrug.

It must be a time warp zone on the border as behind the bar it has a 1990 calendar and postcards which looked a lot older.

It's sounds like a great place to me.  I love eccentric places like that, especially with equally loony staff. 
That's one nights location set in stone.  Just need to get fit now.  Cheers fellas.

In that case you are in for a treat, look at the reviews, 1.3 out of 5 and most saying they would have given zero.

It really is a euro Royston Vasey???

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Refuge+du+Col+de+Balme&client=ms-unkn...

Yes, I've heard of a lot of people camping most of the way round but breaking up the stages a little differently as there's not much camping to be had from Rifugio Bonatti around to the Col de Balme. I was thinking of doing it clockwise anyway but where would you start from in this case? As the climb up to Flegere seems pretty severe for the first day.

I'm thinking clockwise, but not sure about wild camping - I've never done it before and I don't really fancy a brush with the local refuge guardians! From the sounds of it, mostly camping with a couple of strategic huts might be best?

There's a campsite in La Fouly and another in Champex and I think one in Trient and I believe it's also possible to camp at the Col de la Forclaz so I'm not so sure about that! Mind you, campsite wise, Courmayeur to La Fouly would be a fairly big day for lots of folks.

Tre le Champ?

Personally I would start from Argentiere and go up Aiguillette de Poset, over the Col de Balme and camp in the site at the top of Trient. It is a semi official site with a toilet, water and a covered eating area. 

The next day you can either go over the Fenetre d'Arpette or for an easier day on the Bovine route to Champex where there is a small camp site on the entrance to the village.

Following day to the camp site in La Fouly and then over the Grand col Ferret into Italy. You will either need to look for a refuge or be imaginative at the end of Val Ferret. The balcon past the Refs Bonatti & Bertone is one of the best days on the trip with stunning views of the S face of the Mont Blanc massive. It is possible to cut down to the camp site at Planpincieux but it leaves you with a dilemma for the following day unless you take a bus to the end of Val Veny and walk over the col and down to La Chapieux where there is a semi wild camp as well as an Auberge.

Once over the Col de Croix de Bonhomme/Col de Bonhomme it is downhill to a bivouac by the Ref de la Baume or continue to a camp site in Les Contamine.

The high route via Chalet de Miage is really stunning but tough and you will end up in Les Houches. Not sure if there is a camp site in Les Houches but many people take the bus to a site in Chamonix and then come back the next day to walk up past the animal park and ref Bellachat. There are several wild camp site above the refuge and before Le Brevant. 

Over Le Brevant, Flegere and down to the col de Montet ends the circuit.

Now this is only a brief idea of the possibilities as it can be shortened by using public transport/lofts etc or lengthened depending on the amount of time you have,

I suggest that you factor in a couple of rest days if you are not in a great hurry.

Hope this helps.

Mike

Thank you, that’s incredibly helpful! Will have a look at the map next time I’ve the time and figure that out. You’re a star! 

Online mapping: https://www.walkingclub.org.uk/ign_france_maps/france.shtml