suggestions for scramble in north wales

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 mattyjones 13 Jan 2019

Hi all,

Wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a scramble. Did Tryfan North Ridge and Bristly Ridge via sinister gully friday just gone and mostly relatively fine but did get stuck at the top of sinister gully where it narrows at the top and had to down climb 10 meters or so to climb out of the narrow part of the gully onto the side to climb above the exit.

Looking for next challenge again I would guess grade 1 or low grade 2 without to much exposure! I have looked up and have seen seniors gully/ridge and also crib lem spur.

Wondering if there is anything else decent around that anyone could recommend? Preferably not Tryfan again .

Thanks 

 

Matt

Post edited at 21:19
 Red Rover 13 Jan 2019
In reply to mattyjones:

There's a few good ones here just take your time to work your way up the grades. A grade I can be quite hard if its wet and obviously a no-go when there's ice unless youre a winter climber, so watch out at this time of year.

 

https://www.ukhillwalking.com/articles/destinations/snowdonia%27s_top_10_sc...

Post edited at 21:50
 PaulJepson 13 Jan 2019
In reply to mattyjones:

llech ddu spur

 maxsmith 14 Jan 2019
In reply to PaulJepson:

Llech ddu is another name for crib lem, which the op already mentioned and I would highly recommend.  Also definitely worth taking a spin up Crib goch if you haven't already.  Seniors gully/ridge it is good fun but it's more of a rough walk unless you seek out difficulty.  Gribin ridge on Snowdon ( don't confuse with the Gribin in the Glyders) is the other high-quality grade 1 I would mention. Probably worth learning some simple rope work before starting out on the grade 2s.

 UKC Forums 14 Jan 2019
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Ffat Boi 14 Jan 2019
In reply to mattyjones:

Try Tryfan again ( via North ridge ) but try a bit more challenging scramble bits first and then have a look at Idwal staircase and Idwal buttress both are grade 2's but you can get of then pretty easily. Would recommend waiting for the summer until you tackle grade 2 though.

In the mean time the Llechryd du, Gibbon ridge and Grib coch are good to have a go.

1
OP mattyjones 14 Jan 2019
In reply to maxsmith:

thank you for your reply - I have done the snowdon horse shoe a couple of times albeit several years ago. I used to do quite a bit of grade 1 scrambling years ago but due to starting a family/career time  has been scarce the last decade but now I have a bit more time wanted to get back into it a bit but don't really remember a lot of routes although I managed to navigate Tryfan and bristly ridge without a problem. Any recommendations for where to learn the rope work you mentioned?

Just found information about Moel siabod ridge circuit which looks pretty decent

Thanks again

Matt

 

OP mattyjones 14 Jan 2019
In reply to Red Rover:

Thanks for the advice and link will check it out

In reply to mattyjones:

You've loads of choice in Snowdonia.

Moel Siabod and Llech Ddu (aka Crib Lem spur) have already been mentioned. Here are the relevant UKH route cards:

Siabod via Daear Ddu (hope I've remembered the spelling right) https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/r/?i=119

Crib Lem https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/r/?i=1209

There's a bit of scrambling on the Nantlle Ridge too - it's nice enough, but brief - the day itself though is a cracker if you like long less-frequented ridge walks:

https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/r/?i=386

 

 maxsmith 14 Jan 2019
In reply to mattyjones: hi Matt, I was in a similar position to you several years back... I loved scrambling but had pretty much completed all the grade 1s and easy grade 2s in North Wales.  I wasn't comfortable with soloing anything harder so I joined my local climbing club and started learning the ropes.  I also went on the Jonathan Conville alpine course (won't apply if you are over 30).

I believe you need to become a solid trad leader to safely, and speedily, protect higher grade scrambles.  This might not be what you want to hear! I'd say your best bet is joining a club and learning from others, or asking for partners on ukc but there's also plenty of courses out there.  Have fun and stay safe - as above scrambling is a much more dangerous proposition if conditions are snowy or icy.

 Welsh Kate 14 Jan 2019
In reply to mattyjones:

Moel Siabod by the Daear Ridge is a great easy scramble. I used it as my first solo scramble after an encounter between my head and a Cairngorm rock smashed my confidence about moving on rock, and it was the perfect 'come-back' route because you can trend left for an easier line or stay right for something a bit more scrambly and fun.

 Stichtplate 14 Jan 2019
In reply to mattyjones:

Might be wrong but from your description it sounds like you were in Dexter rather than Sinister. Was it loose, chossy crap at the exit point?

 kaiser 14 Jan 2019
In reply to mattyjones:

I personally won't be scrambling again now until the spring but if you been up (and partially down) sinister gully then the easier grade 1's may seem tame.

 

I would also suggest Idwal North West Face Route - you'll need the guide book (Ashton or Smith) as route finding in the upper part needs a little thought.  It's easy grade 2 in dry summer weather, very slabby and lots of ledges

 Oujmik 14 Jan 2019
In reply to Stichtplate:

Sounds like the perfect opportunity for me to deploy the only useful contribution I've ever made to the climbing community

https://www.flickr.com/photos/oujmik/18553502689/in/photolist-ugvxXp

Now also on my UKC profile as Flickr have decided to delete 12500 of my photos...

In reply to mattyjones:

Nantlle Ridge for sure. One of the best walks in that area too.

 Mike Peacock 15 Jan 2019
In reply to kaiser:

> I would also suggest Idwal North West Face Route - you'll need the guide book (Ashton or Smith) as route finding in the upper part needs a little thought.  It's easy grade 2 in dry summer weather, very slabby and lots of ledges

Agreed. Provided you stay on route it's easy for the grade, but committing due to the lack of an easy retreat.

 maxsmith 15 Jan 2019
In reply to Mike Peacock:

Easy to get lost on that one - I managed to take a wrong turn at the quartz ledge even though I'd done it once before!

 stevez 15 Jan 2019
In reply to Oujmik:

> Sounds like the perfect opportunity for me to deploy the only useful contribution I've ever made to the climbing community

> https://www.flickr.com/photos/oujmik/18553502689/in/photolist-ugvxXp

> Now also on my UKC profile as Flickr have decided to delete 12500 of my photos...

Used your photo a couple of weeks back to ensure I was in Sinister. Thanks.

 Trangia 15 Jan 2019
In reply to mattyjones:

Snowdon via Crib Goch, a magnificent scramble in an amazing situation. The nearest thing you will get to an Alpine ridge south of Scotland, particularly under full Winter conditions.

OP mattyjones 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Stichtplate:

No definately sinister - the one closest to the wall with the over hanging rock.

The exit of the gully felt steep and couldn't easily get out of it so down climbed 10 meters and went left then up. Have since borrowed Steve Ashton's scrambles in Snowdonia where it suggests this left deviation as an alternative easier route. 

Post edited at 20:16
 tagscuderia 20 Jan 2019
In reply to mattyjones:

The Llech ddu Spur is an absolute must, it's a great route and the horseshoe via Yr Elen makes for one of the best days in Snowdonia so definitely go for it.

There's nothing difficult on Moel Siabod, if you're looking at G2s I'd give it a miss unless you're short on time (it's a fine half-day walk). The East Ridge of Y Garn is my favourite G2 but... I've seen plenty of people back off it so if you're hoping to minimise exposure, work up to it.

Unfortunately Tryfan holds all the best G2s that I can think of: North Buttress, Bastow Buttress and Notch Arete are all brilliant.

Last thought, the G1 on Foel Goch: The Mushroom Garden, a quiet corner of the Ogwen Valley, nice and atmospheric! Stick to the rock as much as possible.


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