The highest among a chaos of rugged hills in the wild heart of Ardgour, Sgurr Dhomhnuill is a steep-sided pyramid that offers typically challenging West Highland walking. Cut off from the 'mainland' by Loch Linnhe, this area has the feel of an island, and most people use a ferry to get here. With no higher ground for a long way in any direction the peak is a superb viewpoint, an outlook spanning all the way from Rum to Ben Cruachan, Mull to Schiehallion. Inland are the more celebrated peaks of Lochaber, well seen from here but a world away in terms of popularity. If the lack of well-worn paths here is anything to go by, comparatively few people bother with Ardgour - a major plus point in its favour. The lack of 3000-footers must have a lot to do with it, but the Munroists' loss can be your gain. Various routes are possible. The walk described here gives a logical three-peak circuit, with a long but beautiful approach through the Ariundle Oakwood National Nature Reserve ( http://www.nnr-scotland.org.uk/ariundle-oakwood ), one of the largest remaining fragments of native Atlantic oak woods in Scotland.