/ Pillar Rock

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Pete Pozman 14 Sep 2019

I'm planning to take a walking mountaineer up Pillar Rock to help him complete the English 2000 footers. He says he's not a climber. Will a confidence rope do or should I carry a climbing rope?

I haven't done it either. 

Mark Eddy 14 Sep 2019
In reply to Pete Pozman:

You will need a min rope length of 30m (the ab into Jordan Gap is circa 15m). Treat the route as a climb, the easiest way up is graded 'mod' and has plenty of exposure so it's going to feel very much like climbing.

The final section of the approach is very airy, loose, and can feel rather exciting too.

HTH

Lankyman 14 Sep 2019
In reply to Mark Eddy:

Do you need to ab? I'm sure you can get onto Slab & Notch scramble without. I've only descended this after climbs elsewhere on the rock and found it quite intimidating as an unroped downclimb. To the OP - definitely take a short rope and a few runners in case your friend needs the reassurance.

Gav Parker 14 Sep 2019
In reply to Lankyman:

I think Mark is suggesting abseiling back down after climbing Slab & Notch rather than down climbing the route.

Mark Eddy 14 Sep 2019
In reply to Lankyman:

As Gav mentions, my suggestion would be to climb Slab & Notch then abseil into Jordan Gap. As you quite rightly say, it's a bit of an intimidating down climb otherwise! 

Myfyr Tomos 14 Sep 2019
In reply to Pete Pozman:

Did the same with 2 "Nuttall baggers" (non climbers) a few years ago. Up and down Slab and Notch (roped) posed no problems but the prospect of an ab into Jordan Gap scared the cr@p out of them. A few runners and slings from what I remember.

Post edited at 20:32
Gordon Stainforth 14 Sep 2019
In reply to Myfyr Tomos:

Yes, no need to abseil at all. The 'scary' bit on Slab and Notch is the slab, and that's the same both ways, because it's a traverse. The notch bit is just a mass of huge jugs.

Pete Pozman 15 Sep 2019
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Can you rig a rope above the slab to protect the traverse? 

Jon Stewart 16 Sep 2019
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> Yes, no need to abseil at all. The 'scary' bit on Slab and Notch is the slab

Might have changed a bit, cause there's now basically a path along the bottom of the slab. I'd say the hardest bit is the steep but juggy section up to/down from the notch. 

I'd definitely rather scramble up and down (slab and notch both ways, don't bother with the old West, it's rubbish and has a hard move at the top) rather than teach soneone to ab - although they might find the latter more adventurous and exciting. 

Post edited at 09:17
Full moon addict 16 Sep 2019
In reply to Jon Stewart:

The slab is very easy - no need for a rope in my opinion. I find the trickiest bit to be the top bit around the corner from the notch if its greasy.  Route finding on Old West is more complicated but I wouldn't say that its rubbish.  A bit broken, yes, but some nice situations and it makes a good traverse of the rock and is much longer than Slab and Notch.  I made a little video of Slab and Notch - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzafwiFrcG4.

In reply to Full moon addict:

agreed, the slabs in the Gulley is awful unless there has been a few days of dry weather

Pete Pozman 18 Sep 2019
In reply to Full moon addict:

That really is very helpful. Many thanks. 

Pete Pozman 23 Sep 2019
In reply to Pete Pozman:

Did it today. Quite greasy and wet following yesterday's rain. It improved during the day. Didn't fancy reversing it in the conditions so I lowered my mate into the Jordan Gap and followed him on abseil. Left a nice locking crab on the substantial in situ tat. You can have it if you hurry up. A big tick for my friend who has now done all the Nuttalls in England and Wales. 

Thanks for all the advice . I used it all.

pass and peak 24 Sep 2019
Pete Pozman 25 Sep 2019
In reply to pass and peak:

Thanks. That's really strange because we weren't aware of anybody else around. We were just talking to a fellow Black Sailor at Robinson's Cairn  and that's the only person we saw all day. I'm 67 by the way and my mate is 73. There's no way Slab and Notch felt like a scramble on Monday. Hope the guy is OK.

Post edited at 12:34
Pete Pozman 25 Sep 2019
In reply to Pete Pozman:

Ah I see it was the day before. We were walking into Black Sail and got very wet. So not ideal conditions. 


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