Dubhs ridge

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 Peterjk 15 Mar 2023

How easy is it to do the whole dubhs ridge without a rope when bypassing the descent off sgurr dubh beag?

 Offwidth 16 Mar 2023
In reply to Peterjk:

I'd hoped someone who has done it would reply. I've been told it's a serious Mod solo with some fairly complex route finding to bypass the section normally abseiled.

 ScraggyGoat 16 Mar 2023
In reply to Offwidth:

I’ve only done it once (but have done the Dubhs numerous times with the Abb). It starts quite a bit below the Abb, and has a small cairn marking it on the left hand side of a grass flat area, with a cracked immaculate Gabro slab above this flat area.
 

If you haven’t done the Dubhs before it’s probably prudent to go upto the abb point and then go back down to find the bypass. You descend some way down a gully/hillside (slightly worn) before taking a rising basalt / grass shelf line to meet up back the base of the Abb. It was very dry and good visibility when I did it, and I don’t remember it being particularly difficult just exposed. It’s probably not very nice in the wet.

However, all the harder scrambling and route finding on the Dubhs is after the Abseil/bypass, so avoiding the abseil does not make the outing easier.

After the Ab there is an obvious block on the ridge to be surmounted, which while a two move wonder is hard for a scramble. The most worn line up Sgurr Dubh Mor leads to a steep initially V shaped Chimney with good holds but is not just a ladder of holds, it needs a bit of bridging and thought.  There is an easier line up before this but it’s not obvious.

Post edited at 17:06
 alan moore 16 Mar 2023
In reply to Peterjk:

Did it as a scrambler using the cuillin scrambles guide book, many year ago. A longish detour back down from the mini peak with the abseil ( sorry, can't recall it's name) then ledges lead round to the col where the abseil lands. Don't remember it being a big deal and certainly better than carrying a rope all the way.

In reply to Peterjk:

I asked about avoiding the abseil here: https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/hill_talk/dubh_ridge_without_the_abseil-7...?

As it turned out the weather was grotty so ended up doing Sgùrr Dubh Mòr from Glen Brittle. Still keen to get up the Dubh Ridge one day…

In reply to Thugitty Jugitty:

I should have added that when I got to the top of Sgùrr Dubh Mòr and looked over towards the top of the Dubh Ridge it looked complicated terrain to work out. I find a lot of the Cuillin looks quite tricky to me though. 

 guisboro andy 17 Mar 2023
In reply to Peterjk:

Have done the ridge twice, the harder scrambling is definitely after the ab,

In reply to guisboro andy:

Yes, and it's still a surprisingly long way to the Main Ridge.

 rurp 18 Mar 2023
In reply to Peterjk:

Did it last year. In theory on a good day I guess it would be fine. I mean if someone can ride a bike down it I guess you don’t need a rope. 
However in the real world of Skye when it’s permanent pissing rain and you can only see 10ft the chances of ending up on disintegrating sheep shit holds over a thousand ft drop are quite high and carrying a 5kg lifeline might be worth the effort. 

Or just pick the good day this year if you are more lucky than me. 30 days in Skye and only see the ridge clear once!!
 

2
OP Peterjk 18 Mar 2023
In reply to ScraggyGoat:

So would you say the bit of the ridge after the abseil is doable without a rope?  That was my main question. I understand the slabs isn't too bad. The only other scrambling I've done on the cuillin is the ridge from sgurr na banachdaich over sgurr a ghreadaidh (grade 3) which I thought was fairly easy but I don't know how they compare.

 oldie 18 Mar 2023
In reply to Peterjk:

IMHO if you were OK on G you'll be fine on the upper parts of the Dubh ridge and there's less scrambling too.

 oldie 18 Mar 2023
In reply to oldie:

PS  That's less scrambling on the upper section of the Dubhs ridge as obviously the whole ridge is long......a wonderful way of reaching the main ridge from near sea level.

 Pero 19 Mar 2023
In reply to Peterjk:

The step onto the slabs is slightly commiting but once on slabs it's all beautiful. You need to find the right starting point, of course.

I didn't take a rope the last time. I found a small cairn on way up SDB, about 100m vertical below the summit. I left my pack there. The descent and ledges were fairly obvious and brought me out below the ab.

Route finding on SDM is difficult. I did quite a bit of backtracking. Perhaps I should have tackled the initial buttress more directly?

SDM is a bit of a beast from Coruisk. Four hours to the summit from the jetty

Post edited at 19:33
 Pero 19 Mar 2023
In reply to oldie:

> PS  That's less scrambling on the upper section of the Dubhs ridge as obviously the whole ridge is long......a wonderful way of reaching the main ridge from near sea level.

I found the whole upper section to SDM both hard scrambling and difficult route finding.

 ScraggyGoat 19 Mar 2023
In reply to Peterjk:

If you are a regular climber, used to clambering about in big boots and found other parts of the main ridge straight forward; in good weather you should be fine without a rope. 
 

A note of caution If the clag comes down, the upper section and importantly regaining the main ridge would be confusing for someone on first acquaintance. I’ve got confused and I’ve done it before in the mist, as well as several times in good viz.  One time mates set off an hour behind me from the hut, they had problems in the mist and got back eight hours later the rest of us, one of them had done it a couple of times before.


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