/ Which synthetic belay jacket?

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jack_44 14 Oct 2019

Hi folks,

Looking at buying a  synthetic belay jacket and not sure what to aim for. I want a really warm jacket for winter bouldering and sport climbing to put on and take off between climbing during winter in Scotland. Won't be using it for winter climbing or anything.

Looking at the ME Fitzroy or Citadel or the Paramo Torres alturo.

Can anyone provide any advice or recommendations please? 

Much appreciated. 

Naechi 14 Oct 2019
In reply to jack_44:

Montane Spitfire - in firefly orange...

Cloughy 15 Oct 2019
In reply to jack_44:

I've been using this £20 decathalon Ski jacket as my belay jacket for Scottish winter climbing. its pretty warm,  fits over all my other layers and I don't care too much if it gets trashed  

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/mens-d-ski-jacket-100-black-id_8359376.html

Andypeak 15 Oct 2019
In reply to jack_44:

I've got a simond alpinist one which is brilliant. I was also in Magic Mountain and they have a sale on at the moment for ME winter gear. Had the ME Prophet for £150. Seemed like a really nice jacket

https://www.magic-mountain.co.uk/collections/flash-sale/products/me-001775-prophet-jacket 

ColdWill 15 Oct 2019
In reply to Andypeak:

That is a deal (if I didn’t already have a Fitzroy).

Andypeak 15 Oct 2019
In reply to ColdWill:

If you are local to Nottingham and can get into the shop they will knock an extra 25% if you are BMC or one of various other organisations

OG 15 Oct 2019
In reply to jack_44:

I have the Citadel one you mention. Some thoughts that may help your decision:

* It's warm and really cosy, like a big duvet. As an indication of warmth - I have used it as an ice climbing belay jacket in Norway (say -5C), as a backup in the Alps (say -10C), and also for Scottish winter mountaineering. Good for cold/damp camping in the UK too if you have space.

* I got it in a sale >50% off a few years ago, but it's really expensive new (£300?). IMO you could probably get something a lot cheaper and just as suitable for the uses you're looking at.

* If you might use for winter mountaineering/climbing in future - it is bulky which means it takes up a lot of bag space and also can be a faff to get things from under it / get it out from under other things. This might just be me being a punter though. On the flip is massively reassuring anywhere it is cold / harsh / damp / high, as you know if things go wrong you can just get inside it and be snug.

* Good if close to a luggage weight limit for a climbing trip as it has big pockets you can fill with heavy stuff and wear/carry it onto the plane.

Hope this helps

Post edited at 15:18
ColdWill 15 Oct 2019
In reply to Andypeak:

I wish you hadn't told me that.

John Kelly 15 Oct 2019
StuDoig 16 Oct 2019
In reply to jack_44:

If you're looking at bouldering and sport routes I'd forget the branded jackets unless in a sale.  You pay a lot for lighter weights!  Alpkit duvet jackets will be worth a look, as would simond kit in decathlon.

For top quality, look at PhD and see what they've got in the bargin bin or their autumn / spring sale.

Personal recommendation would be DAS parka by Patagonia or Alpha by PHD.  Both rediculosly warm for their weight! 

jack_44 17 Oct 2019
In reply to jack_44:

Thanks guys. Food for thought for sure.


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