Which dry half rope?

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 patsaunders 31 Aug 2019

I’m looking for a new dry half rope for this winter and come up with Tendon Ambition 8.5, Black Diamond 8.5 and Mammut Genesis 8.5, interested to hear people’s thoughts on these or any I might have missed. I’ve had a Beal iceline and found it kinked easily.

 Wayne S 01 Sep 2019
In reply to patsaunders:

You seem fixed on a 8.5mm rope. The Genesis is a good rope, but the 8mm Phoenix is well worth considering, not quite as bomb proof but pretty damn good, and much lighter.  

OP patsaunders 01 Sep 2019
In reply to Wayne S:

Thanks Wayne, my thoughts on going for an 8.5mm was that we often climb as a three and I thought a slightly thicker rope would be better?

 NigelHurst 02 Sep 2019
In reply to patsaunders:

what about the beal cobra - 8.6mm?

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/climbing/ropes/beal_cobra_ii_half_rope-1000...

Post edited at 13:49
 Hat Dude 02 Sep 2019
In reply to patsaunders:

Recently bought an Edelrid Kestrel for a very good price from one of the online retailers.

Only used it a few times so far but seems good, handles well and has a more durable feel to it than an old Beal Cobra.

 Al_Mac 02 Sep 2019
In reply to Hat Dude:

Throwing an alternative into the mix I recently got a pair of Mammut Serenity's. Partly the increased thickness for not a great increase in mass over the Mammut Genesis/Beal Cobra while being possible to use as a single for lower grade routes where you may be moving together and taking coils. They're also fully dry treated so are ideal for winter mixed stuff where ice lines are a bit skinny and easily damaged on cairngorm granite. 

I did have concerns over longevity when compared to the Genesis but I had a good chat with the guys at Dicks down in Bristol who suggested that their experience was that both seemed to wear as well as each other. Sure, there is definitely extra weight to be carried compared to a lighter (and thinner) rope but I just can't see it affecting my grades while the increased thickness gives additional safety margin. For that additional margin I'm happy to carry the extra weight. 

 galpinos 02 Sep 2019
In reply to patsaunders:

I had Cobras and was looking to replace them with either another pair of Cobra or a Cobra and an Opera. The Cobras have a lovely feel and have lasted really well, though are now 40m (ish) long, instead of 60m.

(Through a twist of fate I have just got an Edelrid Swift so no longer sure what to pair it with.)

OP patsaunders 02 Sep 2019
In reply to NigelHurst:

Cheers Nigel, I hadn’t looked at these, I had Beal iceline and it kinked really badly so it put me off Beal ropes with Unicore. Maybe I should look again.

In reply to patsaunders:

... another vote for the Mammut Phoenix 8mm - lighter, smaller pack size and just as durable as the 8.5mm Genesis - I really rate them; would never go back to 8.5mm now...


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