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/ What should I replace Red Chili Spirit VCRs with?

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nastyned - on 18 Aug 2018

I got a new pair today but heard they're not making them anymore and the replacement is not as aggressive. Which is a shame as I need all the help I can get when climbing. Anyone got any suggestions for a replacement when my new pair go the way of all flesh?

Chapstick - on 08 Sep 2018
In reply to nastyned:

I had two pairs of them And found them extremely comfortable. I got some coaching and was told I would never do hard climbs in that shoes. I now wear Scarpa vapour v’s they are not quite as comfortable but you will be able to stand on much smaller edges 

nacnud - on 08 Sep 2018
In reply to nastyned:

Try scarpa velocity V, or la sportiva tarantula

Martin Bennett - on 08 Sep 2018
In reply to nastyned:

What size are you? I have a pair of La Sportiva Tarantula velcro to sell. Size  8 (but beware - this is a big 8).

Also have La Sportiva Katana velcro in a 9.5 - probably a realistic assessment of size.

Either would be a poss replacement for Spirits.

C Witter on 08 Sep 2018
In reply to nastyned:

Pretty much anything! They're not famed for being 'aggressive'- they're basically a flat shoe. At the moment, my go-to trad shoe is the laced Scarpa Techno X, which I would definitely recommend and seems in some ways a similar profile to the Spirit. It's a "technical flat shoe" design; it's pretty comfy, fairly stiff and tensioned around the heel without being an achilles killer. If fitted snugly, it feels very slightly downturned and edges very well. The toe design also seems good for jamming in cracks.

I feel complete trust in them - they fit well, stick well, and edge well. Also, Scarpa shoes seem well-made to me - certainly far more durable than La Sportiva in my experience. I also managed to get a pair of 5.10 Stoneland 'tech' laced shoes, for sub-£40 from Rock and Run. They're quite soft and flexible, but I've found I can stand on very small grit foot-hold "suggestions" (e.g. that starting hold that you have to look at in profile to even see). Super comfy and sticky, but certainly not "aggressive". The shoe is lined and feels a little bit luxurious! Still prefer the Techno, though!

p.s. check Ebay - sometimes you can pick up basically new shoes for £30.

Post edited at 18:40
GrahamD - on 08 Sep 2018
In reply to nastyned:

I really love the three Velcro fastenings on the VCRs . Is love to find some alternatives giving the ability to adjust the width down the length of the boot in the same way.

Max factor - on 08 Sep 2018
In reply to nastyned:

I'm selling a pair of spirit Velcro, size 42.5 (guess uk 8.5, can check). Used for a week only, bought too big unfortunately. £55. 

nastyned - on 10 Sep 2018
In reply to nastyned:

Thanks for the suggestions. I now need to have a think about comfort vs climbing ability too!


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