A month or so ago at Millstone Edge I saw a guy bend the wires of his nut over and stuck it backwards into one of the bore holes. I didn't quite hear what he said, but it sounded like he called it a "baby bopper" or something like that. I imagine it works a lot like a tricam.
What's this called and how sketchy is it?
Are you sure it was a standard wired nut and not a wired camming nut - which have been made by some manufacturers - possibly kong?
Kouba make wired tri cams called the Abalak.
I've done this at millstone. #9 wallnuts used to work well. I would expect them to hold if you fell on them, but the wire would be trashed and need replacing.
I've done similar, a right pain to remove though.
It mentions doing this in my copy of Eastern Grit so must be fairly commonplace
If I ever have to use or refer to this technique, I’ll be calling it a baby bopper.
The birth of a climbing term. Exciting!
This is fairly common practice on routes with boreholes, which are hard to protect with anything else from a standard rack. I've done this a fair bit in Avon over the years.
The Scottish Government has announced a £2 million support package for the residential outdoor education sector, which has taken a severe financial hit due to the COVID-19 crisis.