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Using a nut like a tricam??

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 parched 13 Oct 2020

A month or so ago at Millstone Edge I saw a guy bend the wires of his nut over and stuck it backwards into one of the bore holes. I didn't quite hear what he said, but it sounded like he called it a "baby bopper" or something like that. I imagine it works a lot like a tricam.

What's this called and how sketchy is it? 

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In reply to parched:

Are you sure it was a standard wired nut  and not a wired camming nut - which have been made by some manufacturers - possibly kong?

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 TimMorgan 13 Oct 2020
In reply to Nempnett Thrubwell:

Kouba make wired tri cams called the Abalak.

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In reply to parched:

I've done this at millstone. #9 wallnuts used to work well. I would expect them to hold if you fell on them, but the wire would be trashed and need replacing.

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 parched 13 Oct 2020
In reply to parched:

Yeah I'm pretty sure they were wallnuts, but those Abalak do look interesting.

I found the climb Jealous Pensioner (E4 5c), and the log on the day says

> Forgot my Aliens but bent back wires worked fine

So maybe I heard "bent back wire" as "baby bopper".

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 Mike505 14 Oct 2020
In reply to Dan Arkle:

I've done similar, a right pain to remove though.

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 Andypeak 14 Oct 2020
In reply to parched:

It mentions doing this in my copy of Eastern Grit so must be fairly commonplace

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In reply to parched:

If I ever have to use or refer to this technique, I’ll be calling it a baby bopper.  

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 mcdougal 14 Oct 2020
In reply to metrorat:

The birth of a climbing term. Exciting!

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 lukehodson 14 Oct 2020
In reply to parched:

This is fairly common practice on routes with boreholes, which are hard to protect with anything else from a standard rack. I've done this a fair bit in Avon over the years. 

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