Trango Vergo

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 David Coley 08 Sep 2022

Hi. One of my climbing partners has a semi functional right hand. Therefore overriding the cam on a grigri can be hard. She often uses a revo but it's poor for working routes. 

Anyone got experience with the Trango Vergo? I've heard that one overrides the cam with the left hand?

And might anyone in the south west have one she can borrow, please, to see if it is a workable solution before buying? Big thanks 

 wert 08 Sep 2022
In reply to David Coley:

No experience with a Trango Vergo I’m afraid, but my partner belays left handed with an Edelrid Eddy when I’m working a route. 

OP David Coley 08 Sep 2022
In reply to wert:

Thanks for reminding me about the Eddy! 

 MischaHY 08 Sep 2022
In reply to David Coley:

The vergo requires you to grip the device between index finger and thumb and hold it at a certain angle. It's a different method to a grigri but still quite faffy. 

I'd have thought something like an edelrid jul 2 would be more appropriate? It's easy to pay out slack fast simply with a hooked thumb (the force can come from the wrist rather than thumb or finger flexors) but it's still very easy to use whilst projecting. 

 climber david 08 Sep 2022
In reply to David Coley:

why not look at one of the non-mechanical assisted braking devices. The edelrid mega jul/giga jul is smooth and may be much easier to use as it relies more on gross motor skills rather than fine dexterity.

Also look at climbing technology clic up, black diamond atc plus, mammut smart belay

 MischaHY 09 Sep 2022
In reply to climber david:

Just for context seeing as you didn't mention it - the Jul 2 is really the best of these devices and much smoother than the alternatives. It also handles far better than the Giga/Megajul which I've always found rather odd. Edelrid really nailed it with the Jul 2 but somehow didn't replicate it in the Gigajul. 

 rgold 09 Sep 2022
In reply to David Coley:

What about the CT Click Up? No overriding of the cam at all, useable with left or right hand. Maybe not so good for lowering? 

OP David Coley 09 Sep 2022
In reply to rgold:

Quite hard to release once locked 

 rgold 10 Sep 2022
In reply to David Coley:

Hmm...the Alpine Up has a handle that makes releasing a lot easier I suspect.  The ClickUp has to be tilted without the leverage of a handle.

OP David Coley 12 Sep 2022
In reply to rgold:

Even with the handle it is really the device for working sports routes to me anyhow. I use one a lot, but in the mountains 


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