UKH

Just got back from a 3 week trad trip to Jordan, and it killed my harness. More exactly my gear loops. 

So in the market for a new, 5 loop harness. 

Seems the market is filled with 4 loop models, or the odd 7 loop monster. But not many functionally 5 loop models. 

Have my eye on the BD technician, Petzl Adjama, or Arcteryx FL 365.

So have I missed any good ones, and does anyone have experience with any of the above. And do the ones with a thin bit of string for the 5th loop work? Eg the BD and Arcteryx ones...

Previous two harnesses have been Wild Country, didn't rate their comfort or durability. 

It might sound like a bit of a non-answer, but personally I've found since using a four loop harness that I make more sensible racking choices and tend not to take gear up that I don't need 'just in case'. 

This certainly has a significant weight saving effect. 

I have to say I like the DMM harnesses for cragging because they have the 'twist belt' tech from Ocun. 

That being said if you want something genuinely 'comfy' then it's really worth considering the Webee Quattro from Ocun as it barely has a weight penalty compared to some like the Adjama but is an order of magnitude more comfortable and has loops for days. 

https://www.ocun.com/product/webee-quattro 

As you may have realised, I really like Ocun harnesses! 

DMM Viper 2 has 5 gear loops! 

BD technician has smaller than usual gear loops, particularly the front ones. I was too cowardly to consider using it as my main trad harness. 

Arcteryx is the answer...

The small 5th loop works well for me, and the harness is super comfy. I have the sport version too.

Not really checked out Ocun. 7 loops is definitely too much faff though. 

I find 5 perfect for organising purposes rather than anything else. Just keeps belay and extras out the way on multipitch stuff. 

I've  got a lightweight 4 loop petzl one I use for sport, or I guess if I was trying a hard onsight. Though never really thought of changing harness for hard trad... 

Good to know about the size of the gear loops. Space is something I'd like, as in Jordan we were quite often doing 40+m pitches of hard climbing. So double rack of cams and 14 draws, plus nuts. Might not fit on little loops.

Quite keen for some big routes over the coming years, so 5 big loops are sort of a prerequisite. Thanks for the tip. 

I copied Jez and went for an FL365. Don't think I'll buy a harness from another brand again. Mega comfy, good loops and feels solid whilst being lightweight. Bit more expensive, but definitely worth it. 

Looks like I'll be getting an Arcteryx one then. Is it a fashion faux pas to all turn up to the crag with the same harness...

Just don't get the red one!

Just to confuse the issue: a 6 loop one   https://www.climbingtechnology.com/en/outdoor-en/harnesses/wall

I bought the most comfortable four-loop harness I could find, and salvaged two loops from my old harness.  Half an hour with needle and thread and I had a six-loop!  I find that perfect - the two new loops are between the original ones, but hang from the top of the waist belt (the originals hang from the bottom) so it's very easy to find the right loop without looking.

I'm confident that the new ones are at least as strong as the original.  I gave thought to exactly where they were stitched on - I deliberately avoided the structural waist belt and only stitched through the sheath of the padding.

It’s alright, his won’t have the brown stains on it.

I go for the brown trousers, just to cover all bases. 

does the arc'teryx have a floating belt or a fixed belt?  On my harness I find my gear loops are always lopsided 

The waist belt is part of the structure on Arcteryx harness’s meaning it can’t float, but is the reason they’re super comfy.

The DMM Super Couloir is still an option - 5 loops.

I've taken to using a sling over a shoulder for some gear if I'm carrying a lot and want to keep my front loops free or less cluttered.

Also experimenting with a couple of loops on rucksack shoulder straps, like the Montane Ultra Alpine 38 has. Thin tape or 3-4 m cord through plastic tubing works, tied for now but if I like it I'll stitch.

As Jamie Wakeham above, sewing on extra loops seems the way to go if you find a harness thats otherwise ideal. Ice screws clippers might also give you extra capacity, though you might have to watch the weight on them.

I thought the general attitude was that a 5 loop harness encouraged you to put heavy metal things right under your sacrum, which was considered 'not a good idea' to fall onto.

I've been using an Edelrid sports climbing harness for everything for a while and never really struggled - even with a set of nuts, offsets, brass, 12 alpine draws, some slings and 8 cams?

I really fancy a Sitta to replace it?

Think that's only a bad idea if you're falling flat on your back on the floor. If I'm doing that from 6 pitches up, I think a bruised sacrum is the least of my worries...

And to others talking about extra racking, or adding gear loops. I find 5 are perfect, front two for gear, rear two for draws, and rear middle for belay kit not needed while climbing. If I'm struggling for space, then I'd agree with the higher post of, are you taking too much kit...

There is always the Yosemite racking trick of putting double sets onto each other. So say your second green cam biner clips onto your first green cam biner that's on your harness. That way, each cam still has its own biner, but you fit two cams in the space of one. You could do this week m with draws as well. Or get on the bandoliier life! 

I had this when the harness was too small for me. Now it's the right size (too big if anything) and I don't notice it anymore. As Jez said, the design of the waist band means this isn't possible, but is what makes it so comfy!

I did find the sizing a little bit challenging, as I was between 2 sizes at first. Maybe a different size would work better for you.

I've previously used DMM harnesses with the floating waist belt, I wouldn't go back to these having used the Arc'teryx. 

That probably rules out my DIY solution for those, then!

In reply to CharlieMack:

I've managed a pratfall straight onto my back at the foot of the crag before.  Having read a few horror stories about having a krab on the rear loop, I won't put anything harder than a chalk bag there now.

Only if you never intend to dangle! I kind of assumed it'd be super light, but it isn't really, you only save about 15g.

Ha ha ... It still beats my last harness! Maybe I'm better padded but I've not found a problem sitting in it for belays. That said, you've a lot more experience than me and I wouldn't want to spend the night in it!

The rear gear loops on the Petzl Hirundos are perfectly spaced so that you can tie on some 4mm cord with plastic tubing to create the 5th gear loop.

I find the 5th gear loop doesn't convince me to take any extra gear, more so just keeps the other loops much easier to manage and free of clutter. 

Yeah I did this with the Petzl Corax as well. I generally stick my lockers, prussiks and belay device on it. 

Why only 5 loops? I really love my DMM renegade https://dmmclimbing.com/Products/Harnesses/Renegade-2 with 7. Ideal for trad.

Yeah, I'm on my second - though I kind of use it like it has 5... rack my gear on the back 5 loops keeping the front 2 clear unless I need to have something be not in my hands quickly or preselected to be extra easy to grab.  Tried to go back to a 5 last year loop but un-learning required so still trad with the 7...

I have a Petzl Sitta. Super comfy, light and has two big loops and two small loops. Normal trad I have a lot of space, I'd imagine for big trad I'd be fine too (will find out this summer!). It also has a fith loop which you could use for belay kit*, but I've never needed to and I didn't want to spanner my sacrum in a fall as per previous poster.

*Poor mobility in my left shoulder means it's harder to reach back on my left so I kerp my belay stuff back left.

I spread my cams over the front 2 on the left, wires over the front 2 right, draws on the 3rd both sides. the 7th at the back is for prusics, belay plate, extra long sling and v small penknife - i.e. stuff I either really don't want to use or only need at stances.

+1 for the DMM Renegade it works well for Trad and has 7 gear loops

Suprised to see my post and another recommending the DMM renegade got dislikes - fair enough if you don't like the harness, but it would be more helpful if you were to explain why...

I wasn't one of the dislikers but I found that the positioning of the front loops on the Renegade got on my nerves as I kept on having all of my wires dumped into my lap when doing rockovers.

I also found that it wasn't comfortable on hanging belays after a couple of years. 

I think that these both occurred as a result of me putting on weight but I found that the different sizing of the Edelrid Orion addressed the comfort and layout issues for me (yes, losing weight would have been a better solution but that was difficult to achieve for a variety of reasons).

I have sport, winter and trad harnesses and use the Renegrade Pro for trad. Lots of gear loops, floating harness and doubleback belt. The best harness I ever had (still have it but its 30 years old) was a Troll Technician with the same features as the Pro but you put the gear loops exactly where you want them. Brilliant. Would buy one again if the were still made...

David

I've heard others, or perhaps it was you at other times , saying that. I reviewed for UKC the first generation Renegade and then DMM for some reason some years later sent me the 2 gen one although not for a UKC review http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2013/10/dmm-renegade-harness-review.h.... I've always got on very well with them - for years the Renegade 1.0 was my do everything harness. Now I have various other ones kicking about from reviews, and being older and lazier generally go for a very light one if I'm walking up Ben Nevis or similar to get to a climb, but last summer when I went to do Dream of the White Horses (my first proper route at Gogarth) I took my Renegade and was glad to have it! I filled everyone of those 7 racks with lots of gear to keep the fear at bay (somewhat!).

I've used the DMM one before, while working at a centre as they were the staff pool harness. Found them uncomfortable to hang around in and not very streamlined. There are stitching lines everywhere. Not that they actually get in the way of anything. But when you're squished into a groove and fumbling around trying to clip or unclip gear, it added up to being a bit more annoying. Along with their overlapping gear loops. Clean and simple for me please. 

So I'm not one of the dislikers, but I do dislike them. Though I can see the appeal of the floating waist belt, I find it's a non issue if you just size the harness correctly. Different story if you've only one harness for all. From t-shirt sport through to 5+ layers Scottish winter! 

Fair enough! It's whatever works for you. Personally, when my renagade reaches the end of its life I'll be replacing it with the same model.