UKH

Hi folks,

I'm looking to buy a set of DMM torque nuts for this winter season and wondered what the general consensus is with wired torque nuts Vs dynema. 

Thanks 

Starter for 10,  wires are more resistant to “winter” nut removers.

Dynema can be re slung very cheaply. Don't know if the wires ones can be done or not

I use BD hexes - but on wires for me, any day.  More robust against winter 'seating' with an axe. But also way easier to place 'just out of reach' in flared cracks/behind blocks when your wearing big gloves, especially the smaller sizes.  

Winter? Wires, at least for the smaller sizes. Bigger sizes (that you can place wearing gloves) on round slings, not tape type. 

CB

Wired hexes don't jangle, and are better for winter in my option. I've just bought a set of the wired ones for this winter season. 

I'm assuming you mean winter climbing rather than rock climbing over winter ? For rock, tape every time.

Thanks everyone, wired hexes seem they to go!

In reply to GrahamD

Yes I mean for entry level winter climbing (grades I to III). Can you explain why you would chose tape in summer over wires? Thanks 

I’d go tape. They’ll last much longer, as they can easily be reeling, and will be preferable in summer.

 I’ve lost count of the number of wires I’ve broken after over enthusiastic seating with an ice axe.

Plus tape is lighter. 

Plus at grades I-III, or indeed any grade, it won’t make the slightest difference. 

I can only comment on summer and from a point of view of thinking that hexes are not good enough to deserve to go on a standard rack because you'd be better off with nuts and cams. That said:

Dyneema is stronger/lighter than wire.

When Dyneema wears, it doesn't leave wires sticking out that jab into your hand and give you tetanus.

Dyneema is very flexible so there is less chance of the hex being moved out of position by the movement of the rope.

As an emergency extender the dyneema works better (basically the previous point) if extending a nut.

Dyneema comes in pretty colours! (aside from aesthetics, it's actually useful for grabbing the one you are looking for first time).

You can turn a Dyneema hex into an ATC when you drop your belay device on a multipitch, can't do that with a wired one!!

Ok, I think I'll stop there

I'd just get whatever's cheaper, doesn't make a massive difference.

That said, the extensible sling on the torque nuts can be useful

In summer, I find the stiffness of wire no benefit (its hard to properly seat a hex at arms length on a wire) but also a liability, as it makes the hex more likely to get unseated as you move above it.