tents on portaledges

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ice.solo 06 Feb 2013
also on the exped forum.

after a bit of data here, preferably first hand, but photos or links or anything else will do too.

im experimenting with using a tent on a double ledge rather than a spec-made fly (in my case a MHW direkt2 with a BD double cabana), anyone else done this?

ive been in touch with a certain well respected brit hard-wAll Klimber who advocates it (or more specifically the i-tent).
also im seing pics of mike lebeki using the system, and hearing bibler once did a version of the i-tent specifically for this (openings in the floor for the center retainers etc).

anyone done this themselves? even better, anyone used a BD firstlight/hilight or other assault tent (even the direkt2 if im that lucky).

pros, cons?
im thinking issues of water/snow getting between the tent and the ledge floor (drainage??) and methods of tying in.

my reasons here is to have the tent for both the base and any ledges better than what the portaledge can provide. the ledge is a cabana as its both cheaper and apparently tougher. routes are mostly winter.
 steveej 06 Feb 2013
In reply to ice.solo:

have thought about this a lot myself.

I don't think you will have a problem with water between ledge and fly as the ledge should have drain holes in it.

I would have two concenrs:

1. not losing the tent in high winds when no one was in it, so you need to think about securing it to the ledge / wall.

2. the height that the ledge is positioned at in relation to the anchor varies the angle of the ledge suspension, which means depending on the situation, you have trouble squeexing the tent onto the ledge.

I think a full expedition fly would be better and leave the tent on the ground.

If you are going up and over, then the first light is less than 1.5 kg, so taking it in addition is not going to make too much difference.
needvert 06 Feb 2013
In reply to ice.solo:

Post your conclusions, should you come to any.

[Christ it was expensive but I bought a fly.]

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