UKH

I just found a brand new looking dmm daisy chain in my gear cupboard.  i was happy to find it but than looked online and saw that they shouldn't be used to connect yourself to the rock.  So do they have any use in the uk or are they just for Aid climbing?

I don't see why it couldn't be used to clean routes in the same way a sling or lanyard would be. I would avoid using any loops other than the end one though, as a failure of the stitching (only rated to ~2kn I think?) would cause a shock-load and potential failure of the daisy chain (or your spine).

Don't use it to attach yourself to an anchor on multi-pitch though, as you shouldn't with slings. 

And always remember with Daisy Chains - if you clip more than one loop, you're dead. 

How come people always make this fvck-up...

You can use them for that purpose (also to attach yer self to top anchors on sport climbs) perfectly safely, provided you generate slack in the  system and then fall. So in short clip the daisy to the anchor and adjust the lenght, then easy onto it and stay there until you either start climbing again (multibitch) or get lowered/start rappelling (single pitch).

Are there better ways, sure... but that isn't to say that the daisy can't be used safely for such things is purely wrong. And yeah, every single piece of climbing equipment can be rather deadly if used wrongly...

Unless you're in a hanging belay where the sling will be weighted from the outset it's not worth the risk (e.g. how you would be stripping a sport route like I said). If you're moving around or slack on the sling then you're in danger of factor 2 shock-loading the sling and anchor, which has been proven to generate enough force to cause failure of the sling. Better to use the rope or a dynamic lanyard. 

I have a daisy chain and a sewn PAS which I bought when I didn't really know what I was doing and to be honest the only use I've got out of either of them is using the PAS on multi-pitch bolted abseils or as an anchor-equaliser on mountain routes. 

Use it to rack your gear, and lift in and out of your rucksack. 

Apart from the dangers of shock loading, this is the other thing you need to be aware of (go to the video at the bottom of the page):

https://mojagear.com/learn/2016/05/11/shouldnt-use-daisy-chain-personal-anc...

Bollocks. A couple of inches of slack while standing on a ledge isn't "danger of factor 2" and isn't going to kill anybody.

Personally I dislike clipping in with slings, far prefer tying in with the rope and always do except on multi-pitch abs. But I dislike hysterical scaremongering too.

Not if you do it right

Why would you do something when there is a better and safer alternative that you already have on you (the rope)?

If the OP is asking whether they can use the daisy chain to strip a single-pitch sport route safely- yes they can. If they're asking whether they should use a daisy chain to attach them self to an anchor then surely the smart answer is no? Sure they COULD but why would they?

If you're on a multi-pitch then have your belayer tie you off or clove-hitch onto the anchor. There's no reason to carry an extra sling to attach yourself to an anchor, plus it'll just get in the way on your harness.

Not scaremongering at all, just pointing out best practice.

"- if you clip more than one loop, you're dead. "

I would say that quite a few people will have clipped more than one loop and got away with it so not just pointing out safe practice: exaggerating the risk. Not to say there isn't real risk but it doesn't help to use language like this. Better to say clearly what the risk is so people understand what they are doing.