UKH

What are the best options for stiff and sensitive rock shoes like the no longer available ORIGINAL 5.10 whites or Sportiva Miura lace ups? All the current options I’ve looked at seem to be overly asymmetric and/or excessive downturned toe and are too uncomfortable with a precise fit.

For softer shoes I find the 5.10 pinks and Sportiva Katanas fit me well 

La Sportiva still show the Miura lace ups on their website. I used to use La Sportiva Mythos on limestone routes up to E4 (my limit). The fit I found to be very good for my shape foot, so they were stiff enough for very small edges.

I guess it’s all about fit. Boreal Ace?

The Ace isn't as technical a shoe as I think the OP is after, and may well feel pretty clunky to someone who's used to more high-performance shoes. I have a pair of Boreal Lynx, which are much more technical (without being downturned) and fantastic for precision edging, but rather too stiff for my liking on more smeary routes. Maybe worth trying those?

Scarpa Maestro? Certainly stiff and not downturned.

What about LS Kataki or TC-Pro? The fit is very similar to the shoes you mention. Both are edging machines. Katakis are more aggressively down turned than TC-Pros. 

Thanks, I tried the kataki but too aggressive for me and my aged toe joints.  Boreal Lynx sounds interesting

Have you tried the Scarpa Vapour lace? Fit the bill for me and smear well too. 

thanks another one to try

Try TC-Pros then. They are super comfortable yet still very precise. Good enough for Dawn Wall of course. I use them for virtually everything, although I am crap at bouldering. I can wear them all day no problems and my feet are very picky about shoe comfort.

I’ve found the Scarpa Instict Velcros to be good all rounders. They’re very comfy, supportive enough, and very precise on small holds. 

Thanks All.  I've taken my old 5.10 whites in for another re-sole instead

Aren't stiffness and sensitivity literally the opposite ends of the spectrum?

I mean you could have flat and sensitive, downturned and sensitive, or stiff and downturned - but stiffness is added with a) more rubber or b) a board of some kind or c) harder wearing rubber. Sensitivity is gained by removing rubber, using softer rubber, or removing a board.

Secondly, if you're sizing to a precise fit, a softer, less stiff shoe will actually be MORE comfortable because it's more able to mould to your feet.  Something like a Scarpa Stix will be soft and comfortable on your foot in comparison to a similarly sized Miura lace, but the Miura lace won't have to be sized as precisely to achieve the same amount of stiffness (and so ability to stand on small holds for long periods).

Eh?

I have two pairs of the old 5.10 Whites which I only wear occasionally in order to extend their life. 

You mention Katanas but don't state it their the velcro or lace-up. I'd highly recommend the Lace-up as a really good edging shoe whilst still being relatively comfortable.

You can have stiff and clumpy and stiff but be able to place your toe precisely and be aware of the interaction of it with a very small hold, that’s why the old 5:10 whites were so good and why I’m getting them resoled again

I’ve used many pairs of Katanas over many years, ideal for demanding multi pitch like Gogarth routes, soft enough for gogarth sloppy holds and supportive for cracks, also easy to slacken off or remove on stances. However they are not as stiff as I would like for standing on match edges on Pen Trwyn or slate

Like you I've used many pairs of Katanas, for a similar fit but better edging potential I use Scarpa Vapor Vs. Inevitably, you're not going to get Katana sensitivity but they're a pretty good compromise.

Thanks Mark, do they stretch much or take much bedding in?

They don't stretch very much. I was going to say that they do take a bit of "bedding in" but I suspect this is mainly a case of getting used to the different feel. 

That's a product of the shape of the toe and the rubber. You also might be comparing a VERY stiff shoe (say, a flat boarded beginner shoe) with a 5.10 blanco which is not actually THAT stiff - certainly not as the beginner shoe - you just don't notice because nobody downsizes a 5.10 galileo 4 shoe sizes.