Scarpa Arpia and Veloce - heel cup depth

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 Sealwife 06 Apr 2020

Looking ahead to when we can all get climbing again, I’m gazing at online shops and thinking about my next shoe purchase.

I have small feet, size 3, and limited opportunities to get to shops to try on at the best of times.  So, advice to try on loads at a real life shop is not what I’m after here.  

Does anyone have either of the above models of shoe in a small size and can tell me what the heel is like, particularly the depth of the heel cup and under the ankle-bone?  I have had to send so many pairs of otherwise decently fitting shoes back because there is too much height/volume in the heel cup and they dig right in under my ankle-bone.

Currently have two ancient pairs of shoes, Evolv Elektra, which are like a pair of carpet slippers and Tenaya Inti which are super-precise but hurt.  Both perfect in terms of fit around heel but I’m looking for a shoe that performs somewhere between the two.

In reply to Sealwife:

I've got some Veloce on review at the moment. Obviously the reviewing has had to be shelved for the foreseeable. I can only comment on the fit at the desk for now.

It's not a small size in my case.

The broad 'square' toe is brilliant for a broad square footed person like me, and I wish more shoes had that sort of profile since this is usually where I suffer. However the sizing seems on the short side so I have tried going up from my usual street shoe 47 to a 48. Even in the up-sized version I find them short out front, but there's also a lot of volume over the top of the foot, and loads of empty room at the heel. And the velcro doesn't let you fine tune the fit as well as laces would.

I can't be sure until I've worn them a fair bit in use, but I think that although they are sold in part on their comfort, in that regard they are going to best suit a user who gets on with a reasonably aggressive bent shoe. I doubt I'll ever find them comfy. However you can definitely get less compromising performance shoes, so perhaps they do sit in the middle ground you're after.

There's no ankle bone issue on me...


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