I'm currently looking at replacing my old quickdraws. I'll use them for summer trad/mountaineering. I have some others for sport routes.
I'm looking at either one of the smaller 'proper' biners i.e DMM phantom or something like the edelrid 19g. I have fairly small hands and use the 19gs for my cams and some racking, not really had any issues with them, I was wondering if anyone had taken the plunge and switched all their quickdraws across to the tiny biners? My biggest drawback is the fact the 19g's can't really fit knots on well so for when you inevitably run out of biners for the belay etc they won't work as well for that. I think i'll keep my 120cm slings on something like phantoms to try mitgate that a little.
I'm also wondering if people have used them to rack wires and what they'd thought i feel they might bunch up to much but want to see what other people have experienced before spending money on it.
I also have some of my cams on tiny biners and I think they work really well. Some of my quickdraws have big crabs and some are phantoms and I simply don't notice the difference when using them, so I'd happily change them all to phantoms.
I have clove hitched thin ropes to the tiny ones in a belay, but a fat one would probably be no good. With regard to nut racking, wouldn't the smaller ones fit fewer on? You could try and see as you already have some.
I'd thought that'd be the case for knots. I can fit double set of 7-11 wires on one 19g it's more how they sit when actually climbing (more difficult to test sat at home)
19g are excellent on racking cams, nutkeys, drills/toolbags/tools and emergency kit, but no way you can clove hitch. Don't like them for racking wires as they are too small to get much in, and wire really *really* snags on nose. The perfect wire racking krab might be the DMM PerfectO
Personally... Phantom is smallest I'd want on quickdraw, if wearing gloves Spectre are good too
I've used 19Gs on some big routes:
as well as making a video about them (!?) https://www.vimeo.com/69471594 -yeah, I can't remember why either. 😆 They're ok if not wearing gloves but if I'm even slightly pushing my grade something a bit easier to clip is good. My standard trad and ice quickdraws are Phantoms on the gear end Spectres on the rope end. Saves some weight, clip easily in winter as well, and you don't get the ends mixed up.
Go full size.
If your recorded climbs are true, you'll get much more benefit by having a good dump before climbing, weight wise (obviously in an environmentally responsible way ).
This is the equivalent of a gear obsessed MAMIL cycling thread.
The major benefit would be psychological rather than physiological.
(Talking as one who has lost > 1 stone in lockdown, due to changed working/ leisure practices, and whose cycling efficiency has improved significantly)
Hope you're happy whichever gear option you take.
WC Heliums. lightweight, full size biners. Easy to use with gloves. 38g instead of a Phantoms 28 but you get a clean nose which makes clipping joyous! If you still want tiny biners WC Astro are worth a look.
> The perfect wire racking krab might be the DMM PerfectO
If only they'd made the gate easier to judge the orientation of. I largely get used to it myself but I'm always at increased risk of a partner getting it wrong and dropping a load of my nuts when I lend a set out.
Bit of climbing tape round the top of the krab solves that issue.
I use the Perfect-os on my main wires but I find the gates a bit 'snappy' and they aren't light. I think the DMM WallDO is the perfect racking krab, especially for people who like a nose on their gate.
> If only they'd made the gate easier to judge the orientation of. I largely get used to it myself but I'm always at increased risk of a partner getting it wrong and dropping a load of my nuts when I lend a set out.
Check out the new(ish) WallDO... solves a lot of the niggles folk have with the Perfect 0 re orientation...
Cheers both for the tip. The WallDO looks much closer to my ideal racking krab.