Replacement for Anasazi pinks (wider fitting)

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 janegallwey 18 Apr 2021

Hi UKC hivemind,

Just wondering what people's experiences have been with alternatives to Anasazi Pinks? For UK trad they were just so good, nice combination of sensitive enough for technical smearing but stiff enough for hour long quest-y leads.

The version before the Adidas sizing change (2 years ago?) fitted me well, I have a few pairs but they've fallen apart on the uppers too badly to be really worth resoling by now. Unfortunately I've absolute bricks for feet and even the older style ones were almost too narrow, the recent size/shape change has made them not really a goer anymore.

I bought a pair of the Unparalled alternatives (bright pink ones) in the hope that I'd be able to stretch them out laterally but I think they're wasted cash at this stage, I'll try a bit longer but will probably be selling them on here soon. I'm size 38 so a lot of brands switch to a low volume women's version by then, understandably enough but doesn't work for me. I could try to mail order the UP lace men's ones in a small size from Darkventures but I'm not sure if its worth it, the ones I have now feel a bit clunky as well as being too narrow.

I suppose I'll have to go try some on somewhere as shops are back open, but would appreciate any suggestions to at least go to shops which stock the brand/model I want to try. 

TLDR: Wide fitting trad shoe - smeary and edgy like Pinks?

Cheers,

Jane

Post edited at 13:16
 Owain Llewelyn 18 Apr 2021
In reply to janegallwey:

Hiya, I've gone from pinks to Scarpa Vapour lace and love them. Comfortable out of the box and feel great so far for all round trad.  I won't be going back to Five Ten.

 Andypeak 18 Apr 2021
In reply to janegallwey:

I think the pink unparalleled are specific low volume shoes. The blue ones are pretty much a direct replacement for the 5.10 pink from what my climbing partner says (he went front the 5.10 pinks to unparalleled)

OP janegallwey 20 Apr 2021
In reply to janegallwey:

Thanks all. Bought a pair of Vapor Lace yesterday, they actually had the blue unparalleled in my size but they didn’t feel much better than the low volume ones I already had so I left off.

Jaysus those women’s Vapors are hideous looking though, like liquorice allsorts on my feet. They feel good though aside from that. I’ll report back in a month.

Now off to worry that I bought them too small...

 DrJP 24 Apr 2021
In reply to janegallwey:

I have worn pinks for years, I also have a very wide foot. Went for the unparalleled blues. They're immense. Very plush inside and comfy. My street shoe size is 11, running shoe 11.5, I chose the 10.5 blues. Slightly tight around the toes, but I've been cragging all day in them and half day multipitch and been fine. 👍 

 Johnhi 24 Apr 2021
In reply to janegallwey:

Just bought a pair too big, grumble grumble.  Apparently they're a tad wider(?) than the old model.  Thankfully I've now got a perfect all day comfy shoe, just not quite what I was shopping for!

Post edited at 11:28

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