Recommend a shoe for my weird feet.

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 mickyv33 23 Feb 2020

Very broad question I know but worth a shot as I spent all day trying on rock shoes and still wasn't happy. 

I feel like every rock shoe I've had has been a compromise - none have fit completely well.  

Anasazi VCS (old style) and Tenaya Masai have been my last two pairs (best fit I could find) and I've found their heels to roll too much (despite sizing down 1-2 sizes).

Closest I've come today to the perfect fit:

  • Unparalleled Up Rise LV 7 and 6.5 and both still had a lot of room in the toebox (everything else fit good)
  • Womens Helix EU40 (perfect fit everywhere but still a little space/roll in the heel.
  • Tenaya Iati size 6 was also really good but same issue with heel

Can any slender footed gentlemen out there recommend the perfect shoe or will I just have to compromise on the heel?

In reply to mickyv33:

if you're looking for slim fitting shoes I'd recommend a La Sportiva Katana (velcro). Thought might not be as technical as what you're after

 alx 23 Feb 2020
In reply to mickyv33:

I have always found it’s a compromise, you end up with different shoes that address different needs (as you would imagine for any tools). A bit like you for my large sized feet they are quite slender, I have ended up carting around a pair of solutions, genius and instinct vs’s. I have yet to find that perfect blend of edging, smearing, toehooking and heel hooking in a single shoe.

In reply to climberclimber321:

> if you're looking for slim fitting shoes I'd recommend a La Sportiva Katana (velcro). Thought might not be as technical as what you're after


Katanas are at least as technical as the Anasazis he already wears.  And at least to me, they are not slim fitting - like most Sportivas they suit broad feet.  Five Ten Blancos are the usual recommendation for slim feet - I cannot get my feet inside them at all.  They are pretty stiff though so might not suit every occassion.

 MischaHY 24 Feb 2020
In reply to mickyv33:

If you're looking for narrow shoes consider Ocun, especially if you have a Greek foot. They fit really rather narrow. 

Otherwise, consider trying 'low volume' shoes (often listed as women's models). 

I recently switched to a pair of low volume Solutions and have never had such a good fit in my life. Wish I'd found out about it earlier!

In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

Katana velcros are definetly slim fitting. https://www.lasportiva.com/en/climbing-shoes-technical-information

 racodemisa 08 Mar 2020
In reply to mickyv33:

I have the la sportiva testerossa mark2.Its a lace up with a narrow heel.Very good all-round shoe.I take it in 2 sizes 36.5 (37 in other laS models ..38 in scarpa sizing) plus 36 (36.5 in other laS models).Both fit like a glove.

1
 misterb 08 Mar 2020
In reply to racodemisa:

Scarpa  chimera has a small heel cup and isn't that wide in the fore foot ,it isn't particularly low volume tho

 Tigger 08 Mar 2020
In reply to mickyv33:

Miura lace felt narrow to me, for reference my go to shoes are the Miura VS and Scarpa Boostic.

 racodemisa 09 Mar 2020
In reply to misterb:

The Booster S feels more like the present testerossa in shape.Both fit me extremely well.In fact the former complements the latter being quite a lot softer.

 mrphilipoldham 09 Mar 2020
In reply to mickyv33:

I tried on a size 8 pair of some 5.10 gym masters the other week at the Adidas outlet in Stockport. My regular feet fitted length ways but would not have fit in width ways even if they heavily dieted. Definitely a slim fitting shoe! Only £25 as well, I was mildly disappointed. 

 alan moore 09 Mar 2020
In reply to mickyv33:

I'm always on here moaning about there never being rock boots narrow enough for my feet. Most boots that are the right length ( I can't deal with knuckled up toes) are a good half inch wider than my feet and edge no better than trainers. 

I've been wearing boreal zephyrs for 20 years now and have not found anything better. They must be good to have stayed in production for so long , although I had to order my last pair from a Spanish shop. 75 quid with postage. I wear size 8.5 shoe  for my size 9.5 feet and they take a while to stretch to comfort.

 slab_happy 10 Mar 2020
In reply to MischaHY:

> I recently switched to a pair of low volume Solutions and have never had such a good fit in my life. Wish I'd found out about it earlier!

I know quite a number of guys who love the low-volume Solutions -- it's like a secret weapon that's been hidden by the marketing of them as "women's" shoes (and the extreme pinkness they used to have).

 MischaHY 10 Mar 2020
In reply to slab_happy:

I started working on a boulder project with some hard moves (had never really tried proper hard boulders before) and quickly realised the heels weren't up to the job on my Skwamas. Miuras worked better but they can't toehook properly so was a bit stumped. The Solution was a proper game changer! Absolutely perfect heels. 3.5 sizes down from street for the perfect fit though. Madness. 

Post edited at 12:27
 krikoman 10 Mar 2020
In reply to mickyv33:

Have you tried women's shoes?


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