UKH

So, there was a review on here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=6798

and various "hyped" reviews on line but did anyone actually by one and if you did, what did you think?

Also, how does it fit? Patagonia seem to have changed their patterns (or I've got fatter). I used to be a UK brand L and a Patagonia M, would this be the case still? It's apparently a slim fit.....

In reply to galpinos:

Excellent. Very versatile. I use it under a shell in winter and have used it as an outer layer in summer rock climbing on cold days. I have also used it skiing as a sole outer layer on sunny days. It is basically like a very comfortable fleece with decent water resistance which becomes more like a lightweight belay jacket (like a nano puff) when you put a shell over it. It is by far my most worn jacket all year round. Good deals on Epic TV Shop too.

In reply to Brian Pollock:

Cheers Brain, even more tempted now. Any idea on sizing?

In reply to galpinos:

Without a doubt the single best piece of outdoor clothing I own. So good I bought a second one.

Great as a summer rock outer because it pumps sweat away so fast then insulates on the belay either stand alone or under a windshirt. Fantastic on walk-ins or under a shell in winter. Such a wide range of usefulness and comfort.

The fit of my medium is what I would call medium+, like most Patagucci gear.

In reply to BnB:


Hmm, even more tempting. What do you do with the second one? Wear both a la Robert Durran?

In reply to galpinos: I've got the gillet and also really rate it, I can't rember the hype but it's super light weight for how warm it is . There is however a "but " . The outer material is very thin and is piling really badly on the collar where it rubs my chin , I reckon it won't be long before its worn through and will be back to Patagonia for replacement. I don't know if it's just mine it if it's a common problem. It could do with a some of that really thin fleece on the inside of the collar. I would still replace it with the same if I lost it.

In reply to galpinos:


Very good

In reply to mike123:

Mine as piled up too where my harness and rucksack have rubbed against it. If anything, it's just cosmetic and doesn't hinder the performance.

In reply to the OP, I have quite literally 'put it on and left it on' so the hype goes. Coming off the Midi arete, skiing down the Vallee Blanche, skinning up to Helbronner, then skiing back down to town. Never felt the need to take it off. I put a softshell on over it for the ski down in the afternoon though as the wind had picked up and a stiff breeze will cut right through it. But that doesn't bother me when working hard going up hill in the sunshine. It really helps to regulate temperature.

In reply to galpinos:
I use my Nano vest when its rather cold, below -10, combined with an ME Eclipse as single base layer and Arc Comp hoody. Vest size L goes on the outside. Almost too baggy for my liking. The slim fit is kind of a joke. Im 187 and north of 90.

As stated, the outer material is really flimsy and guess it would trash very fast if contact with rock.

In reply to all: Does it pack away into a pocket or similar? Interested to know as surely sometimes it would get too warm?

In reply to Duncan Campbell:

Packs into its hood, if you get the hooded version.

This is great because for a nice warm solution you can put your Nano Air hoodie over your R1 hoody and underneath your hooded hardshell in the rain and sometimes throw on a hooded belay jacket. Never again shall ears go cold.

In reply to climbwhenready:
Haha I meant does it pack into a pocket so you could clip it to your harness? Obvs you 'put it on and keep it on' but that's just not realistic all the time...

In reply to Duncan Campbell:

No. You can't pack it into itself to hang from a harness the same way as the nano puff but I suppose you could put it in a stuff bag.

In reply to BnB:



The Nano puff and Houdini don't fit my shape, they seem designed for someone short and tubby (like Yvon Chouinard). The R1 is closer to fitting me well, but still has a room for a 'alpinist's tummy'. Rab/Arcteryx athletic fit are better still for me.

How does the Nano air fit around the middle?

In reply to flaneur:

A bit squarer than my torso for sure. But that isn't really the point. It's how the thing feels, not how it looks.

In reply to BnB:



Thank you. Sounds like try before you buy.

I'm not concerned by looks but an ill-fitting garment won't be as warm as a well-fitting one.

In reply to flaneur:

To fit in this thing you should either be naturally thick built over chest and shoulders or do a lot of bench press and preferably sport a tummy. Envision american army guy.

Even when I was somewhat flabby at 95kg, the Nano Vest in L was too big over the stomach. Ill fitting, warm leaking? Yes! Slim fit? No!

I still use it though, so its not a disaster and maybe its the leakage which makes it usable for me, I run hot.

In reply to galpinos:

I've a nano air hoodie - and a vest. Probably my two most worn pieces of kit I own, really rate them. Wind resistance is nowt, but once you stick a windshirt on they are perfect for high activity days. I will quite happily wear one with a R1 hoodie and shell and be warm all day long in winter.
No issues with the fabric wearing out so far, but I can see it could be a problem. Either way, I'm hoping to get as long from these as my (still going) original Nano Puff jacket and gilet!

In reply to flaneur:

Warmth isn't it's selling point (although it is warm), comfort over a wide range of temps and conditions is.

I'm Rab-shaped yet bought two. Read into that what you will.

In reply to flaneur:


My Houdini fits me perfectly.

Can't help but be offended.

:p