UKH

Olympic shoe development ban

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 Climber_Bill 29 Jan 2020

Interesting article;

https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2020/jan/28/controversial-nike-vaporflys-...

As the ban is on shoes, I wonder if climbing shoes will be included as well. Though the question is what will be classed as "new shoe technology".

TJB.

 UKC Forums 29 Jan 2020
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 Iamgregp 29 Jan 2020
In reply to Climber_Bill:

Doubt it, the ban is being imposed by World Athletics, not the IOC.

If the IFSC followed up with a similar ban then maybe, but I can't see that happening. 

 Wil Treasure 29 Jan 2020
In reply to Climber_Bill:

> As the ban is on shoes, I wonder if climbing shoes will be included as well. Though the question is what will be classed as "new shoe technology".

What would progress in climbing shoes look like? I'm not sure there have been any genuine advances in the time I've been climbing. Some brands' rubber might have improved slightly, there's more rubber over the toes now and fit might be a bit better. Nothing groundbreaking to my mind though. I bought my first shoes in 2001 (Scarpa Dominators).

When I interviewed Charles Cole of FiveTen fame he said that they were always experimenting with new rubbers, but once they got too sticky they were concerned about knee injuries because you couldn't adjust on holds.

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OP Climber_Bill 29 Jan 2020
In reply to Wil Treasure:

> What would progress in climbing shoes look like?

Yes, that was my thought. As you say, the main advance is in the rubber. I'm sure there will be advances that haven't been thought of yet, as for the vaporflys. La Sportiva have brought out a specific speed climbing shoe, though I don't know if there is any new tech in those.

 AlanLittle 29 Jan 2020
In reply to Climber_Bill:

> Even if the AlphaFlys are banned at elite level there will be no restrictions on ordinary athletes buying and wearing them in races when they are released in the shops by Nike.

Apparently this happens in road cycling, where amateurs can & do use way lighter kit than is allowed in the pro peloton.

 ianstevens 29 Jan 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

It does; the UCI have a minimum weight limit of 6.8kg; and it’s pretty easy to build up a bike to weigh less. It’s not uncommon for pro bikes to have added ballast.

Post edited at 12:43
In reply to ianstevens:

> It’s not uncommon for pro bikes to have added ballast.

Like batteries and motors...?

 ianstevens 29 Jan 2020
In reply to captain paranoia:

😉 think more metal plates between the frame and bottle cages

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