/ REVIEW: Ocun Jett LU Rock Shoe

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Jett LU montage "What we low-to-middling climbers arguably need is a shoe that doesn't feel like it's holding your performance back, but not one so extreme that you can hardly wear it" reckons Dan Bailey. Does the Jett LU hit that intermediate sweet spot?

Read more
MischaHY 15 Nov 2019
In reply to UKC Gear:

By way of interest for those with this sort of foot shape but want a more performance focused shoe, check out the Pearl LU from Ocun: https://www.ocun.com/product/pearl2 

It's got barely any asymmetry but still has a good amount of downturn etc. 

galpinos 15 Nov 2019
In reply to UKC Gear:

My main take away from this is that you have some mighty fine calves Mr Bailey.....

Chris(cface!) 16 Nov 2019
In reply to UKC Gear:

I've been using Jett LU & Pearl LU from Ocun for the last few months, mainly bouldering indoors but also a few trad sessions outside and really rate them both.

 Jett LU I bought, (very reasonably), as a trad shoe, bit stiffer and more supportive with a less aggressive heal for extended periods of wear. I sized them a half size smaller at UK8. They have softened with wear and have become more sensitive, which is a relief as I found them a touch 'feel-less' to begin. Persevere and they come into their own, good edging and feel precise on very small edges but with enough stiffness for torquing into small cracks semi-comfortably. 

The Pearl LU is very different, softer with a more pronounced down-toe and a narrower more precise heel. They are much better on steeper ground and, with a slightly thinner rubber just feel more sensitive. They put better power down through the toe and, with a lower toe volume, scum and toe hook more effectively, they also heel hook better too. They are a bit narrower and I'd say they better suit sport/bouldering on more off-vertical ground.

Rubber type is the same, much better than I expected, having worn 510 Anasazi Pinks and T-Rocks for years.

Biggest seller for Ocun was the really good price point. I think they offer excellent value for money especially given the way I find they perform, if like me you baulk at spending £120.00 up on shoes, definitely give them a try! 

Post edited at 09:52

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.