UKH

Hi guys!

I'm looking for a new trad harness with comfy belt, adjustable / padded leg loops and maybe double waist buckle...no preference on brand
I've already buy and try:
- CT Ascent (Italian entry level)
- Petzl Calidris (the most confy and bulky but a lot of issue on sizing)
- Petzl Adjama (more stylish than useful during hanging the legs "are cut" apart by thin leg loops)
- CAMP Jasper CR4 (from China with love and cheap, 50 bucks no one more)

Please suggest an harness useful to carry large amount of carabiners, SLCD and nuts without frequent issue!

See You!

Maybe try some of these:

- Arc'teryx AR 395a

- Edelrid Sendero

- DMM Mithril

Still think this is a cracker of a do everything harness https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/climbing/harnesses/edelrid_sendero_harness_...

Still think this is a cracker of a do everything harness https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/climbing/harnesses/edelrid_sendero_harness_...

DMM Renegade.

Why go further afield, when some of the best gear is here in the UK.

I've long been a fan of the Petzl Corax, it having waist buckles on both sides mean it's very adjustable for different amounts of clothing under it, and it has plenty of gear loops.

I just bought my new harness.

My first was a Joe Brown harness that lasted me from mid-80s to mid 90s; then came a Camp unit with leg loops I could 'open'.

This new one is only the third and will likely be my last. I wanted something that would do everything: trad, Scottish winter, alpine - though not sport - I don't do that so didn't evaluate from that perspective. Long internet research and testing (and eventual purchase) in my local climbing shop (Au Vieux Campeur) whittled down choices to... Drum roll... Edelrid Sendero. Can do everything, comfy and not too pricey.

Have fun with whatever you choose !

They're not made here. Pretty certain they're still made in Czech just like loads of other harnesses of lots of different brands. I've had two Renegades, good harnesses but heavier than many modern designs (it's a 15 year old basic design) and I had an immediate little problem with my second one. http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2013/10/dmm-renegade-harness-review.h...

I bought one on all of the reviews (UKC, OGL), but honestly the gear loops aren't great, it doesn't pack down that small, and it isn't phenomenally comfortable. The rear gear loops are too far rear, too small, and not stiffened enough that it's hard to get gear off them properly when loaded up with a full rack of micros, double cams, double nuts, slings, e.t.c. Also, there is loads of loose material on the belt that isn't routed in a way that keeps it away from gear - I'm always accidentally clipping into the belt tail as well as the gear loops.

Pretty light and robust but I preferred the Edelrid Leaf that it replaced. That took more of a "wide, thin pads without padding" approach, which was also less sweaty. This one has a constant white sheen of dried sweaty salt on it.

Might just pony up and buy a SITTA next time, which looks like a better option.

The Ocun Twist Quattro seems to fit your bill

I've not used one but have had an Ocun Weebee Move for a few years and it has been fine

the Quattro is made for big walling and has a massive waist belt, double belay loop etc. It's massively overkill for anything other than multiple days on a hard (whatever that means to you) bigwall IMO. 

I use the Black Diamond Zone for everything including big alpines multis and it works great. If you can't fit all your kit on it then you have too much kit  

Don’t believe the hype and the price tag. SITTAs aren’t what they’re cracked up to be. They wear super quick too. 

Edelrid Ace is a great harness at a very reasonable price, though I preferred the original version. 

Tom

Wrong Quattro

https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/ocun-twist-quattro-climbing-harness-brg-1/?gclid...

A chap in Banana Fingers told me he found the Sitta so uncomfortable for sitting in that he swapped harnesses for belaying. That rather put me off!

I've got a Climbing Technology Wall harness that I use for trad - had it a few years and pretty happy with it - decent sized gear loops, comfortable, and seems well made. Definitely worth trying some on though. I was always quite tempted by a DMM Renegade, but when I borrowed a friend's one, I found the loose end of the waistband flapped around in the gear loops and was quite annoying.

Touché

I note exactly that in the review - it's really annoying isn't it? But that was about the only negative I found. I genuinely really like mine and haven't used the other various harnesses I have that much since getting the Sendero.

Are you saying you find the Sendero more sweaty than the Leaf? I also reviewed the Leaf some years back https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/climbing/harnesses/leaf_harness_from_edelri... I think it's a good harness too, but I'm not really sure why but find the Sendero more comfy. It's odd how different folk find the same harness model really comfy or not comfy at all - I was actually thinking recently that beyond things like rack size and positioning not being necessarily what you want, it's quite hard to find a bad harness these days. But I guess different leg shape, thickness, etc etc really can make harness feel very different for different folks?

Contrary* to this, I love mine. I don't climb (anywhere near) as much as Tom but for a weekend warrior, the it wears fine, is super comfy and I use it for everything.

*apart form the price it IS expensive.....

Funnily enough that leaf was bought on the strength of your review to replace an ageing Renegade Pro (with double back buckles - how tiresome!).

The sendero is a lot more sweaty - the first harness I've actually noticed it in, even giving me spotty blocked pores on my lower back after a week in Pembroke (the leaf didn't do this over weeks in Spain). 

Very few bad harnesses; I agree. But not convinced that I've found any genuinely excellent ones yet.

I'd like a harness to pack as small as a leaf, be under 300g, have wide dyneema reinforced but lightweight leg and waist straps, semi fixed leg loops (no long tails), stiffened gear loops that will hold 2 racks of nuts, and a key 15 qds, 10 cams on individual biners and 5-6 screwgates.

I'd be open to it magically increasing my onsight grade to E11 too, but first things first...

Anyone tried an edelrid prisma guide?

Wild Country Session or the new Synchro are worth a look. 

Admittedly I'm heavily biased but have personally found the Session a huge improvement on the old Mission!

https://www.outside.co.uk/climbing-gear/harnesses-helmets/harnesses/wild-co...

No, but I’ve looked at one in the shops and it’s gear loops are tiny. I think the gear loops on the new version of the Edelrid Ace are on the small side for your needs.

Whatever Arcteryx’s fix leg looped harness is currently called, probably fits your requirements. I really rate mine for carrying lots of gear.

Weirdly they have basically sacked their entire range of hwrnesses for 2021 and now only have one 400g fixed loop harness that is currnently rated 2/5 on its own page for manufacturing defects and sizing issue!

I have the arxteryx big wall. Now discontinued. It has an extra 2 gear loops on the current offering, which only has 2 on each side. 

I have no idea what I'd buy next. Nothing seems to come with many decent gear loops. It's kinda a design priority for me. I like to go prepared!

Trouble with the extra loop is it pulls the waist band down a bit and that makes it less comfy. Besides that, it has been an outstanding harness imo. 

It doesn’t matter how good a harness is if you don’t sit nicely in it when falling or hanging. The only way you will find that out is by sitting suspended in it. 
 

I’d recommend going into a good shop and trying a few to find which suits your body shape, not all will.

I can't see past the DMM Renegade 2. My Renegade has been great and, while I expect it to last quite a while yet, a recent harness shopping trip with a friend, revealed no serious rivals have materialised yet...

I can't reccomend the BD solution guide enough. By far the best harness I've ever used. I thought I'd miss having adjustable gear loops but the way they work means you don't really

I like the solution guide too, comfy and the gear loops are just big enough for a full rack. I've spent full days mountaineering in it and you just forget you've got it in. It's been pretty durable too. Shame there's no ice screw clipper slots but that's the only thing I can say against it.

The renegade, OTOH, I find bulky, uncomfortable and difficult to adjust over different clothing layers.