/ New Harness - DMM Viper / Vixen

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Philip 08 Jul 2019

Wife and I need new harnesses. Anyone got opinions on the DMM Viper 2 (Vixen for her).

Trad and indoor. The only thing I can see that's odd compared with the Petzl And Troll I've had before is that the DMM buckle system looks like you can't completely undo to avoid stepping in. Probably less of an issue if I'm not planning and alpine climbing, so not a deal breaker for a comfortable harness.

Got to go up a size too, but if the extra exercise helps I'll be swapping harnesses next year (or back in my old one).

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Andypeak 08 Jul 2019
In reply to Philip:

The buckle looks the same as is on my Renegade harness and you can completely undo that

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Philip 08 Jul 2019
In reply to Andypeak:

Thanks, I'll pop somewhere that sells them and have a closer look.

What do you think of the renegade? I only discounted that as I didn't need the extra ice screw points and didn't see any other differences.

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Andypeak 08 Jul 2019
In reply to Philip:

I've got an old version but I love it. I really like the 7 gear loops and am surprised that their seems to only be 2 harnesses on the market with 7 loops. 

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Mike505 09 Jul 2019
In reply to Philip:

For a women's harness my gf just picked up an Climbing Technology Anthea Harness. This was after searching for weeks for one that would go small enough but still had 5 gear loops. The petzl and DMM offerings either didnt go small enough or had a rise that was too short.

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DubyaJamesDubya 09 Jul 2019
In reply to Philip:

> Thanks, I'll pop somewhere that sells them and have a closer look.

> What do you think of the renegade? I only discounted that as I didn't need the extra ice screw points and didn't see any other differences.

Never needed the ice screw points on my Renegades (on my 2nd one) Never noticed they were there.

Bought it because I found it to be the best 'trad' harness available

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TobyA 09 Jul 2019
In reply to Philip:

It's hard to go far wrong with modern harnesses. I've not used a Viper but they look like a solid allrounder. I've reviewed and used for many years afterwards both the first and second versions of the Renegade - version 1 from 2008 https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/climbing/harnesses/dmm_renegade_harness-1333 and version 2 from 2013 http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2013/10/dmm-renegade-harness-review.html and it's a very good design. Although I have various other harness options if often go back to the Renegade for big trad days when the 7 racks is useful in managing lots of gear, and it's comfy even fro semi-hanging stances and the like. The Viper looks very similar - just a bit simplified (five racks instead of 7 but presumably they're a bit bigger) and a touch lighter.

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simondgee 10 Jul 2019
In reply to Philip:

Not wishing to hijack but interested...hwat is the difference between a mans and womans harness such as the Viper and Vixen Other than colours...More specifically are there reasons why mens and womens harnesses are distinguished...definitive sizing (in cm/inches) of waist and leg loops is presumably the only bit we need to know?

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Philip 11 Jul 2019
In reply to simondgee:

I just checked. The Men's S and M correspond to Women's M and L on waist, but for equivalent waist the women's leg range is smaller.

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stevevans5 11 Jul 2019
In reply to Philip:

I have the viper 2 and am a big fan, use indoor and out sport and trad. Not got a lot of experience of other harnesses but this one has been comfortable, well featured and seems to be lasting well. 

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eb202 14:07 Tue
In reply to simondgee:

Women's harnesses generally have a longer rise (distance between leg and waist loops) to accommodate a female shape (narrower and higher waist), and they go smaller. If the rise is too short it is difficult to stay upright whilst hanging in it, not great if you're falling off or taking hanging belays. The waist loop should sit properly on the waist. Of course some women might prefer a men's harness and vice versa, it's essential to try them on and hang in them before buying. The UKC article comparing women's harnesses is worth a read for info. 

Post edited at 14:15
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