New comfy rock shoes for easy trad

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 climb41 10 Jun 2020

I have gone through two pairs of red chilli Sausalito in the last few years. Loved them, comfy, and great for my occasional climbing, leading up to VS and seconding a bit more than that. 
when I renewed last time, for some reason after reading reviews, went for velcro  Boreal  Jokers. I have been out now maybe half a dozen times in them and tbh, have nowhere near the confidence in them. I love padding up slabs and they just don’t seem to stick! 
 

My usual partner has said 3 choices... give up climbing, persevere or buy something different. I am beginning to think I should have stuck with a new pair of Sausalitos. 
 

Any others I should consider? 
Thank you. 

 tehmarks 10 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

If they fit, Sportiva Mythos. Insanely comfortable, and insanely capable. Particularly great for slabs as they're very soft and thus very sensitive. I've worn them for the past ten years, and I'm only (just) on to my third pair. Five years out of the first pair and four out of the second - not bad! And both old pairs are in resolable condition too.

(Edit: but get them as small as you can possibly bear - they will stretch, and they will stretch a huge amount).

Post edited at 19:14
 cragtyke 10 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

They do feel a bit plasticy at first, but will improve, very durable but not the stickiest.

 bouldery bits 10 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

Jokers awful.

Better with wellies.

Get Moccs used to be my standard advice. However, I understand 5.10 quality is not what it once was.

 Andy Farnell 10 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

I'd have thought the Scarpa Helix would be perfect for you, or if you want something softer the Veloce (designed for indoors, but slightly downturned and sticky) may well fit the bill.

Andy F

 Duncan Beard 10 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

I love my old 5.10 Spires for long easy multi-pitch or single pitch trad up to VS, just had them resoled. Very comfy & always confidence inspiring.

 Cobra_Head 10 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

Jokers get better, I hated them at first, they seemed very unpredictable, and never lead outdoors in them.

Not sure what's changed but they're OK now, or were 3 months ago.

Why not get your old shoe resoled?

Red Chilli Impact Zone are pretty good, but quite thin soles so can be a bit tough on you feet sometimes.

 ipfreely 12 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

5:10 Gambits (the lace ones feel a little wider than the velcro ones for some reason) are easy to wear all day as long as you get them in the correct size (big enough)

 GrahamD 12 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

If the Sausalitos fitted really well, why not try getting another pair ? Their shape is comfortable - I loved mine until I had them resolved and the comfort went.

 Hat Dude 12 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

La Sportiva Finale or Evolv Defy

 slab_happy 12 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

If you want something on the soft smeary side for slab-padding, Sportiva Cobras have served me very well and are super-comfy.

 stevevans5 12 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

Evolv Kronos are worth a look! 

 james.slater 12 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

I found my Jokers to be the comfiest all day shoes Ive ever had! They were the all blue first gen though. After a resole they were never quite the same but I still wore them till they fell apart recently.

I have replaced them with the Black diamond momentum (vegan version). They are excellent for an 'all day easy' shoe and I reccomend them, but not as comfy as my old jokers.

OP climb41 12 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

Thanks everybody for the replies  I’ll give the jokers a few more goes, but for sure some of the suggestions look really good and suited to my erm..casual low level puntering...

Thanks. 

 mrphilipoldham 12 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

My first day out in my first pair of Jokers saw Three Pebble Slab (HVS 5a) onsighted, and now on my fourth pair I'm more than happy that they're still not the limiting factor on E1/2 terrain. If they don't stick then I'd hate to know what I'm missing elsewhere...! 

OP climb41 12 Jun 2020
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

you are clearly a more talented and skilful climber than me. I must try harder...

 brianjcooper 12 Jun 2020
In reply to Cobra_Head:

> Red Chilli Impact Zone are pretty good, but quite thin soles so can be a bit tough on you feet sometimes.

I find my Red Chilli Impact Zone brilliant on Grit. The  softer rubber smears really well. For Limestone I have a couple of pairs of La Sportiva Miura laces.  Excellent for small toe holds and edges.

So many choices, so little time.   

 Max factor 12 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

Jokers were one of the few shoes I had to get rid of, or you say, not confidence inspiring.

I went through a phase of wearing Sausalitos. Teaches you to look where you are putting your feet, I didn't find them limiting and did 7b in them with some small footholds. Years later I went back to a resoled pair of them and found I really missed the sensitivity you get in performance shoes.

 Gav_92 13 Jun 2020
In reply to climb41:

Glad it's not just me who's had issues with the jokers, comfy and a good shoe just had zero confidence in them

Last pair was a pair of la sportiva finale great shoe but never had my size when I wore them out. Current pair is five ten anazazi pinks love them so comfy and grippy 

 dmca 13 Jun 2020

Funny reading reading this as I'd come to the same conclusion about Jokers (or Silexes, which are basically the same but stiffer). Had climbed up to E1 in them but gave up after absolutely bricking it on a runout limestone route in winter when I couldn't feel my fingers and couldn't remotely trust my feet either. They are indestructible mind, so decent enough for laps on an autobelay or something.

Anyway, the Scarpa Helix, as already mentioned, are comfy (and gripy enough). Don't like them as much as my old thunders but that's probably physiological since they're more or less the same shoe.


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