GROUP TEST: Large Bouldering Mats

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 UKC Gear 07 Jul 2020
Large Pads are ideal for higher problems, or those that have an awkward landing

Biggest isn't always best, but in bouldering it certainly has its place. Larger pads are ideal for higher problems, awkward landings, or anyone with lower limb niggles - but on the other hand they're less ideal when it comes to storing or carrying them. Here we test seven of the bigger pads on the market. 



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 afx22 07 Jul 2020
In reply to UKC Gear:

Great review.

Just to add, anyone who has or is looking to buy an Organic Big Pad - they do an optional hip belt and a thing called a Load Flap.

I have both.  The hip belt obviously helps comfort and stability.  Shame it doesn’t come with the pad by default.

The Load Flap allows you to strap stuff to the outside of the pad.  I use mine almost all of the time to strap extra pads to.  It’s amazing what you can carry (like two extra full sized pads) but it’s hard work lifting the whole lot onto your back.

Anyway, I’d recommend getting both items if you do any decent walk ins and want to carry extra pads.

Post edited at 13:06
In reply to afx22:

Good shout, not least because despite having owned a Big Pad since 2015 I have never once used either, instead favouring a tenuous series of ratchets (which - in retrospect - probably aren't the best for the pad/foam).

Thanks for the recommendation. Glad you liked the review too!

 HeMa 07 Jul 2020
In reply to afx22:

While I do like the idea of the load-flap. Imho the execution is sub-par. Why on earth no strap below. 
 

Oh, and while lugging more than just the pad, take a good look at the attachment points. The stitches are coming off from my older big pad (the handle on the fold, also the rucksack strap attachment).  Need to do some maintenance later this year (glue a bit more fabric on the inside and restitch). Might as well add proper attachment points for the load flap. 

 steveriley 07 Jul 2020
In reply to UKC Gear:

I use a couple of this kind of thing to strap 2 pads together - https://www.amazon.co.uk/BlueCosto-Lashing-Strap-Straps-Tensioning/dp/B06XG... - no Amazon endorsement implied! But as per Rob, only for actual walk in. I'm a good citizen and have space to leave them unfurled at home.

 Si dH 07 Jul 2020
In reply to UKC Gear:

Thanks for the review. Very helpful.

I'd really like a big pad but even with an Octavia estate the size in the back puts me off. Does anyone have a Saturn and other (medium size) pads that you put in an Octavia? How many other pads can you get in with the seats down? Currently I can get 3 mediums and a small in the boot with the seats up, but the dimensions of the big pads are far less good a fit for the dimensions of the boot.

Edit: or an Organic Big Pad or a Cirrus.

Post edited at 17:31
 afx22 07 Jul 2020
In reply to HeMa:

Because it’s easy to crank the load flap tight, it’s not an issue that there isn’t a strap on the bottom.  It just works really well.

The only issue I have is that if you strap extra pads on all the time, the rucksack attachment stitching takes a battering.  Mine could do with re-sewing.

 Droyd 07 Jul 2020
In reply to Si dH:

I have a Saturn and an Octavia estate; as you say the pad can't go in the boot and so it lives on the back seat, where it fits well, and I have a DMM Highball and a small sit-start pad that fit in the boot along with ropes and other clutter. In that configuration I've found that I can easily slide another Saturn in on top via the boot, which blocks the rearview mirror. I can also put two of the three rear seats down and get a stack of flattened-out Saturns in lengthwise. I've not had all of the seats down and tried to get as many pads in as I possibly could, but I'd think that four Saturns would be doable.

 Graeme Hammond 07 Jul 2020
In reply to Si dH:

> I'd really like a big pad but even with an Octavia estate the size in the back puts me off.

My friend has an Octavia estate and it is quite easy with the seats down to get his Saturn Pad + my Organic Big Pad & 2 highball pads as well. I can get that all in my 3 door fiesta but you can't see anything and it is a mega squash especially as the Saturn doesn't fit across the back seats as easily due to it being a bit bigger in size and not being a rectangle but a squash tube shape.

Because of this and being someone who uses my pads almost daily in winter being able to keep the big pad + a highball on the back seats almost all the time and still see out of the back, whilst still having the boot free and not compromise the foam as much by having it always folded was a big plus. Having to store the Saturn open to stop the foam creasing would be a right pain for me although the lack of fold is usually a advantage at the crag. They are both similar in impact absorption although I have noticed as the review did that the Organic starts harder, almost too hard but ours both bought about the same time seem to be holding up well so far although mine sees a little more use than my friends.

I don't know about other users but I find on the Organic Big pad the back system being held in place by velcro is a particularly weak spot. After a short time the velcro on mine has failed and the pad now slides from side to side if I have a heavily load stuffed inside it. A friend sorted this out by getting the back system stitched in place, something I intend to do to but wouldn't have expected to do for the price! Although I have regularly taken it out with a trad load inside which hasn't helped, something that the review says isn't practical although I have managed ok, although i don't think it does the foam any good and puts a fair bit of strain on the buckles although these are holding up perfectly which shows its build quality. The main disadvantage is with a trad rack inside the pad it bends the foam so it isn't very comfortable to wear.

I tried out the Alpkit very briefly at a crag once and it was a joy to land on (especially compared to their early offerings in the early 2000s) the owner was impressed with it too however mentioned that the outer material seemed to be oversized compared to the foam so when carrying it the foam of the pad would swing around inside causing a similar problem to my organic.

I borrowed a Petzl Cirro for a several  months once and whilst it was a joy to land on the weight, similar car faff to the Moon Saturn and time consuming zip closer system meant carrying it a short distance between problems was so much of a pain it put me off buy one when I had to give it back. I managed to overcome this problem somewhat by taking two karabiners to the crag to clip the opsite ends of the pad together but a bit of better design and this wouldn't be a problem. The zip closure system felt like it was about to break too which was worrying as it was on loan so for someone who is heavy on their kit this was also a worry. Carrying stuff inside I liked that the stuff couldn't fall out the bottom but again having anything more than basic bouldering kit squeezed inside was a pain and put alot of strain on the world's biggest and baddest zip. The velcro hip system was also terrible and keep coming undone which for a heavy pad was a right pain, what was wrong with a buckle (don't remind me of a trip to Sypeland with this pad a trad rack and a highball I almost died). Having said that if I had a choice of which pad to take a big fall onto this would be a favourite.

 HeMa 07 Jul 2020
In reply to afx22:

Problem is that If you strap 2 or 3 pads on it. No amount of tightening is enough. 

 Si dH 07 Jul 2020
In reply to Graeme Hammond and Droyd:

Thanks both that's great. 

Think I will have to shell out when one of my current pads gets worn enough for me to justify it! 

 wbo2 07 Jul 2020
In reply to UKC Gear:

😀😀  Happy to see this and suspect  my wallet will get to see sunlight... Anything I get will go in a Nissan Leaf but luckily I have no friends. 

Any experience of a BD mondo.... I can borrow one from the sports  club at work 🙂

 HeMa 07 Jul 2020
In reply to wbo2:

the original mondo was stellar... newer version are good (especially if cheap/free), one in the middle had crap foam.

oh, and can't remember if the leaf is smaller than a note or not. but if the same size, 2 big pads will fit in plus a small/medium pad if you fold the seats.

 afx22 07 Jul 2020
In reply to HeMa:

What problems have you had with the Load Flap?

 HeMa 08 Jul 2020
In reply to afx22:

No matter How tight you cinch it. Add a few pads and then proceed to run After a toddler. Not nice when the pads fell out. 
 

plus the handle (in the ”Hinge”) is coming off due to cinching. A better design would have been an easy job. But I guess for a company that specializes in making bouldering pads, thats a bit too much to ask .

that said, I’ll fix these issues later in the fall, with some stiching, Re-stitching and added ’tie in’ points.

 afx22 08 Jul 2020
In reply to HeMa:

Ok.  I’ve not had problems with pads falling out or stitching of the handle at the fold - but I don’t have a toddler to run after

 D.Russell 08 Jul 2020
In reply to UKC Gear:

I have a Ford Mondeo estate and my organic big pad fits in the boot perfectly along with a DMM highball and the big organic topper. 

 NickBradley 08 Jul 2020
In reply to UKC Gear:

Really surprised to see the Alpkit pad get a slating again, but seems justified due to the bizarre decision to change the carrying system!

I bought one in November 2019 and at that point they were still using a full thermo-formed rucksack system that I understand comes from one of their normal rucksacks. I find this both really comfortable and very sturdy. With this carry system I'd argue the Alpkit is easily the best value for money, given it's getting on for half the price of the unbelievably expensive Organics and Snaps (I got mine on offer for £200!), but if they've changed the carry system to such a flawed alternative I can see why it would be hard to recommend. Anyone know what the story with this is? 

With the proper rucksack system I can't really recommend the Alpkit pad highly enough. As long as you can fit it in your car it does the job of two normal pads, is great to land on, the foam seems great and hasn't really softened despite 6 months intense use and it's easy and comfortable to move around with. At the price, it's hard to beat. 

In reply to NickBradley:

Hi Nick,

Having used both the old and the new I would say that the change of back system was a big mistake, not to mention one that could have been easily identified with a bit of use. I wouldn't have thought it would be too difficult to rectify either.

Another factor that worked against it was that Alpkit have moved back to the buckles we had issue with in our Mid-Size Bouldering Mat Group Test, which have a habit of undoing themselves when released from pressure. This ultimately leads to the shoulder straps undoing each time you take them off, which is - as you can imagine - highly frustrating (see pic attached).

With this in mind, whilst it was the biggest - and in terms of its size does indeed represent excellent value for money - we didn't feel like we could truly offer 'Good Value' status given how fundamental these issues were to the pad whilst it was in use.

I'll notify Alpkit of the issues shortly and see whether or not they make any adjustments in in light of the feedback.


 tehmarks 08 Jul 2020
In reply to UKC Gear:

Folding SNAP pads: I have a Stamina, so smaller and probably a fair bit easier, but I find the easiest way is to lift one end and then put your body weight behind it and flop onto your knees on top of it. Then you can do the buckles up while you're kneeling on top of it, no rodeo impressions and no fighting required.

In reply to tehmarks:

> no rodeo impressions and no fighting required.

where's the fun in that though

 ChrisBrooke 08 Jul 2020
In reply to UKC Gear:

Not mentioned in the review, but has anyone actually tried buying a pad recently? Hard to find most of these in stock anywhere at the moment. Apart from the Saturn which seems to be in a couple...

In reply to ChrisBrooke:

From the various brands/shops I've spoken to it sounds like there's been a run on them since restrictions have been eased.

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Think this is a morpho/length of lever debate  Ben can just reach the two side handles and bring them together, hold the handles in one hand and then do up the velcro with the other. Also rodeo method is highly recommended for toning inner thighs... 

 NickBradley 08 Jul 2020
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Thanks Rob, does seem like a strange and obvious error. I wonder whether it's a cost cutting measure in the current climate? 

Then again, the buckles surely can't be that much cheaper, and even if you did want to save money on either buckles or rucksack system that doesn't mean you need to adopt a patently flawed design. 

Sounds like I was very lucky to get mine when I did.

The other thing I was going to say was that I found Alpkit's customer service to be exceptional. When I bought mine it was shown as out of stock on the website, but all it took was a quick exchange of emails and they had one made up and sent out to me very quickly. What a shame to see that let down by an unnecessarily poor product. 

 jalien 08 Jul 2020
In reply to UKC Gear:

Honourable mention for the Psychi tri-fold, i just got mine delivered today (first of the new batch), and it's a whopping 180cm x 110cm for £170.

Folding in 3, it's only 60cm wide on your back, although it sticks out a long way behind! Haven't used it yet, but it seems like it'll be up to the job

 jalien 08 Jul 2020
In reply to Si dH:

As i mentioned above, look into a mat which folds in 3, as it's much more likely to fit in a boot

 Finley1234 09 Jul 2020
In reply to UKC Gear:

I really like my Psychi mat, it's huge, tough and way cheaper than the ones in the review.

Note: I am supported by Psychi, but I genuinely think they're a good buy. 

 colin8ll 10 Jul 2020
In reply to UKC Gear:

I would give another shout out for Psychi. I've got a tri-fold Quake which is huge, well made, gives a good catch and is cheaper than any of these alternatives.


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