UKH

Hi all,

I need to replace my ropes. I was hoping for any advice on how best to cover multiple climbing disciplines with as few ropes as possible? I've done a bit of alpine, scottish winter, and sport climbing, and I do a reasonable amount of trad in normal years.

It seems like ideally I would have:

• 60-70m sport rope
• 50m not-too-skinny double ropes for everyday trad
• Dry treated doubles for scottish winter
• Dry treated but not skinny rope for alpine climbing

Previously I had one half rope and one dry treated triple rated rope, which I think covered most climbing ok, but now both need replacing. I was curious what others would reccomend for replacement.

Alex

60m pair of dry treated Beal Operas. 8.5mm triple-rated.

Definitely a compromise on weight compared to normal half ropes.

And definitely not going to be a long-lasting workhorse as singles.

But if you want maximum flexibility from the smallest number of ropes you're going to have to make compromises.

I have

One sport rope 60m

one set skinny ish 60m double dry treated

old 9mm cut to 40m for scrambling

what more do you need?

I've gone with:

• One 60m triple-rated rope.
• A pair of 60m ice lines.
• A 35m chunky single.
• A 30m half.

I predominantly climb on grit in the UK, and nearly always use a single. If I do think I might need half ropes, I take the 60m and use it doubled. If we're going to go off and do a mountain route, I combine the 60m with a partner's half, or we climb on it as a single, and the ice lines only get used for winter and alpine, and so remain nicely water-resistant throug lack of rock climbing abuse. The 30m half is for ski touring, glacier plods - anywhere in the mountains a short and skinny bit of rope might be needed.

I think it's a good system. The main advantage for me is that I can (could*) fly to Europe and only take the 60m triple and a 60m half between me and partner. Anything too long for a 60m and you can ab off, and having two half ropes is obviously invaluable for multipitch adventures. Maximum flexibility for minimum weight and space.

Buy them all from decathlon and you can get as many ropes as you want!

Whatever happened to having 'your half of a pair of ropes'?  My half is languishing at the back of the cupboard because my most regular partner has a thing about a matched pair, which are both his

Just use your mates.

Bad news; I'm that mate. Although only have 4 ropes now, had 6. But sold the skinny pair after it got shortened rather quicky...

Just give up on any effort to minimise the number of ropes you own. It's a completely pointless and silly idea. 

Assuming that you have no intentions of voluntarily giving up climbing, over the next decade or so it will make no real difference in terms of cost whether you own ten ropes or two. Buy the best options for the climbing you intend to do. 

You're list sounds pretty much spot on. The first three are EXACTLY mirrored in what I own:

• 60m x 9.8mm sport rope (general UK sport climbing) 
• Pair 50m x 8.5mm dry half ropes (general UK trad, sea cliffs and multipitch)
• Pair 60m x 7.5mm dry half ropes (personal snow/ice climbing) 

I haven't done much Alpine stuff for years but for mountaineering stuff, both instructing/guiding and personal, I'm a big fan of the latest thin singles so have: 

• Pair 60m x 8.7mm dry singles (as a pair for guiding in Winter, or singly for mountaineering.)
• Pair 40m x 8.7mm dry singles (as a pair instructing or singly for general mountaineering/scrambling Summer and Winter)

Finally, as mentioned by another poster you can't beat having a short (25-40metre) fairly substantial single either bought specifically or cut down from a previous sport rope:

• 27m x 9.8mm single (indoor use, gritstone and outcrop climbing)