Harnii - and gear.

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 Cobra_Head 13 Jun 2022

Not sure this has been done before, I've seen a few harness threads but maybe not on this subject.

My original harness (20 years old) was a Singing Rock, something or other. Unfortunately over the years is seems to have shrunk somewhat, I wasn't aware the age related shrinkage was a thing with modern materials.

Anyhow, to negate the Victorian corset efect, I treat (treated) myself to a brand spanking new Petzl Corax, along with about 600 million other people, looking at what people are wearing at the gym.

I based the Petzl fit on comfort and a bit of wiggle room, for future shrinkage. It's a great harness for indoors and is comfortable.

My problem is the gear loops are too far back, so far that I can't see what gear I'm looking for on the rear two loops, there are the standard four loops.

It's so bad that I often have to resort to my old harness when trad climbing, which is great but, you know it's old and tight.

I looked in GO last weekend and there doesn't seem to be any options in there to suit my needs.

I tried the largest harnesses I could find, thinking they would, when pulled in tight to my sylphlike figure would bring the loops closer to the front. Still no luck!!

So I'm looking for suggestions, for the harness, not for getting an owl's head and neck.

Cheers, Jim

OP Cobra_Head 13 Jun 2022
In reply to Cobra_Head:

PS a double front buckle system seems best to keep the loops centralised.

In reply to Cobra_Head:

You could look at a dmm renegade, which has 7 gears loops, and just not use the back ones? I don't find mine that comfortable but some people love them.

I've got a BD solution guide and I've never struggled to get to the gear loops. The front ones are a bit bigger than the back ones as well.

The expensive arc'teryx ones looks pretty good on that front because I think you can make them so the stiffener on loop makes all the gear slide down forwards. Not sure about this though because I've never owned one and can't imagine spending more than £100 on a harness.

Post edited at 17:12
 beardy mike 13 Jun 2022
In reply to Cobra_Head:

I've found that Petzl place their gear loops way round the back. I don't know if this is all their harnesses but like you say, it's fairly useless for trad...

OP Cobra_Head 13 Jun 2022
In reply to pancakeandchips:

Cheers, I'll try and give then a looking at.

In reply to Cobra_Head:

If you put nuts & cams on the 2 forward loops that you can see, & 'draws, slings, screwgates, nutkey, belay device on the rear loops that should lessen the need to see what you are picking, especially if the 'draws are at the front  of the rear loops......

 Tom Green 13 Jun 2022
In reply to Cobra_Head:

Black Diamond Alpine Bod. 
 

You’re welcome!

4
OP Cobra_Head 14 Jun 2022
In reply to buxtoncoffeelover:

> If you put nuts & cams on the 2 forward loops that you can see, & 'draws, slings, screwgates, nutkey, belay device on the rear loops that should lessen the need to see what you are picking, especially if the 'draws are at the front  of the rear loops......

This is a great idea, especially if you are starting out. Unfortunately, I've got 20 years of "No,4 cam right-hand side towards the back on the second loop" to deal with. Also, if I've got one harness with adequately positioned loops, maybe there's another one, similar.

In reply to Cobra_Head:

A case of old dog, new tricks...... but I know what you mean. I'm another fan of the DMM Renegade...... love the 7 gear loops, and the way the harness slides on the belt to allow flexible centring as clothing & waistline varies

 spenser 15 Jun 2022
In reply to pancakeandchips:

The Arcteryx harnesses often pop up on Sportspursuit for sensible prices, I can definitely recommend from a comfort point of view. 

cb294 15 Jun 2022
In reply to Cobra_Head:

BD harnesses in XL are tailored to suit the large American gentleman, and do not suffer from shrinkage when delivered across the pond.

CB

OP Cobra_Head 15 Jun 2022
In reply to buxtoncoffeelover:

Nice one, cheers.

OP Cobra_Head 15 Jun 2022
In reply to cb294:

ha ha ta!

cb294 15 Jun 2022
In reply to Cobra_Head:

Don't ask why I would know about shrinkage...

More seriously, I had a bunch of BD harnesses and they are MUCH more comfortable for a >100kg climber than the DMM harness I currently use. After this season I will retire that one, because it is much less durable than my previous harnesses and starts wearing through, especially on the edges of the leg loops, after a much shorter time even though I currently climb less. I will definitely go back to BD.

CB

 PaulJepson 15 Jun 2022
In reply to Cobra_Head:

I've had a similar problem, though bizarrely my first harness and the one I still have to use for trad is the Petzl Corax! I bought a Petzl Adjama a year or so ago and the rear gear loops are so far back I can only use it for sport or indoors. 

The Blue Ice Cuesta looks real nice and is tickling my fancy. 

1
 whenry 16 Jun 2022
In reply to Cobra_Head:

Climbing Technology Wall harness? Double buckles, five or six gear loops depending on size, and reasonably priced. I've had mine for about six years and get on well with it.

OP Cobra_Head 16 Jun 2022
In reply to whenry:

> Climbing Technology Wall harness? Double buckles, five or six gear loops depending on size, and reasonably priced. I've had mine for about six years and get on well with it.

Just seen those earlier today, I'll have a look. cheers.


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