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Climbing shoes help Scarpa Maestro

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 Chloe 31 Jul 2020

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone who works in a shop or knows a bit about Scarpa climbing shoes can help?

I got a pair of Scarpa Maestros (women's) for outdoor sport climbing and really like the toe and hardness of the rubber on them but the heel doesn't fit very well and rubs a lot. Does anyone know of a shoe with the same rubber that is worth trying so I can get a better fit please? That or I'll try a size down. I'm climbing like 7s outside sport so usually go for more aggressive shoes. 

I also wear the Scarpa VSRs but for some reason I don't trust them as much outside. 

Thanks! 

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In reply to Chloe:

Hi Chloe,

I've always liked the Scarpa Instinct VS for sport climbing, as they offer a bit more support than the Maestros, which I personally found a little bit flat and floppy. They also benefit of having the same slightly firmer rubber, Vibram XS Edge.

When it comes to the VSR, which you also mention, I absolutely love them for bouldering, but due to them featuring Vibram's softer rubber compound (XS Grip) found that they creep a little on smaller edges whilst sport climbing. Not sure if this is the same issue you were having?

Other potential ideas include the Vapour Lace, although I haven't used that so can't provide a professional opinion; however, from what I've seen out at the trade shows it like it could fit the bill for you.

Hopefully that's of help

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 Chloe 31 Jul 2020
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Hi Rob,

Thanks for the really helpful reply. Just looking at the instinct VS and can't work out if the women's version still has harder rubber than the VSR? It says XS grip 3.5mm just like the VSR but I thought it has XS edge?

If the women's ones are soft I could try out the orange original ones and also I'll take a look at the vapour lace. 

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In reply to Chloe:

Ahh yes you're quite right - the women's Instinct VS does feature XS Grip (sorry, forgot about that). 

With that in mind I'd definitely give the Orange ones a go, as they sound like they have the potential to be right up your street. The other option (which may or may not fit) is the La Sportiva Otaki; however much like the Scarpa models the women's version features XS Grip as opposed to XS Edge.

Penny, my substantially better half, reviewed the Women's Otaki here, which she absolutely loves for British sport climbing. Here's a link: https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/footwear/rock_shoes/la_sportiva_womens_otaki+skwama-11743

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