Climbing Shoe Advice

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 LJ2606 04 Feb 2019

For various reasons I've not managed to get out much the last year or so, but last night I finally managed to get down to the bouldering wall for the first time in an age. O'h how I've missed it... although my hands and feet can't say the same.

I appreciate I hadn't been climbing for a while and are out of practice, but I couldn't believe just how much my climbing hurt my feet. After an hour and a half of climbing my heels were starting to blister and my toes felt like they were going to drop off. I know climbing shoes are tight fitting but I don;t remember them being that bad...

Seen as though I've got the climbing bug again and my current shoes (Tenaya Masai) have seen better days, I figure it's a good time to invest in some new shoes.

I wear a size 11 in normal shoes, but have fairly narrow feet with long toes (particularly second toe), so finding suitable climbing shoes in the past has been tricky (hence why my current shoes may be so uncomfortable).

Gradewise, I used to climb up to V4/V5, althoug being out of practice last night I was struggling with V2s. 

Any reccomendations would be greatly appreciated.

 

OP LJ2606 04 Feb 2019
In reply to LJ2606:

Sorry, should say "any reccomendations that fit my foot shape and grade would be greatly appreciated"

In reply to LJ2606:

If your heels are blistering due to using them a lot for heel hooking then maybe try something like the solution that has a very solid very comfy heel cup that is totally different to the tenaya heels ,it is not super narrow like the masai tho

If not then maybe try a very soft structured shoe that moves well with your foot.there is now tons of choice in this style of shoe from scarpa  and sportiva and others

2
 jezb1 05 Feb 2019
In reply to LJ2606:

Honestly you’ve just got to get to a decent shop and try some. V12 is my local and they have a good range and phenomenal rock shoe knowledge.

 Mike Stretford 05 Feb 2019
In reply to LJ2606: I've got similar feet to you. Inside I mostly climb in these

https://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/p/climb-x-crush-lace-rock-shoe-F1112187.htm...

Fit me well, decent and inexpensive, so I don't care about wearing them out indoors.

I recently picked up a pair of Scarpa Vapour Lace, which I will used for harder outdoor climbing and the odd problem indoors.

As jez1 says go and try a lot on. Personally, I think people tend to use more techinical shoes inappropriately, so maybe think a bout 2 different pairs for different climbing.

Post edited at 13:21
jeremysalt 05 Feb 2019
In reply to thedevonshirepiemuncher:

Highly seconded. 

OP LJ2606 06 Feb 2019
In reply to LJ2606:

Thanks for the replies guys.


With regards to my heel blistering, it's not so much due to excessive heel hooking; the problem is more towards the back of my foot at the top of the shoe (if that makes sense??) where I think it could be the seam of the shoe rubbing through my skin.


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