UKH

Hey all,

I am currently learning how to trad climb and am trying to set up a good beginner rack. My sport grade currently tops out at 6b and I’m not planning on doing any ‘crazy’ trad climbs to begin with. I’m off to Norway in June and want to be semi confident by then and will need to lead while my girlfriend seconds each climb. 

I’ve already got all the sport gubbins, lots of slings, and have DMM nuts 0-11 and a set of offsets. I’m thinking that I will need to get some cams and am stuck on what/if I should buy. DMM cost a fortune, what’s the difference between those and a cheaper brand like climbing technology or similar?

Any feedback will be appreciated. What do I need to get started?

Thanks!

Joe

Dmm and BD cams are worth the extra money in my opinion. There are lots of 2018 model camalots on sale at the moment as they have just been superseded by the new model (but are still really good).

The bulk of my cams are DMM 4CUs which are circa 40 quid a pop. They are decent allrounders that replaced some WC Friends and HB quadcams and were pretty much a like for like replacement. Climbing Tech cams seem to be similar money so I'd stick with 4CUs personally. 

I do have three DMM Dragon cams which are nicer given the size range they cover but they are not cheap. If I had loads of spare cash I'd have a rack composed entirely with them but for the stuff I climb the cheaper cams are fine.

As said above if you can get cheap deals on Camelots then you could do lots worse!

I agree with Alex that DMM and BD cams are worth the extra money.

Incidentally they also both offer a cam reslinging service, something that not all manufacturers do, I believe Totem and Metolius are the only two other brands to offer this service. DMM are the only company out of the four to be UK based and offer the service from North Wales. It's plausible that the metal work can outlast the fabric or in the case of any other issues or repairs being required its worth considering where you might have to ship them to! 

Thanks Guys, I appreciate the feedback and will shop around some of the last season models. Looks like lots of the sales are sold out already! People must have been waiting for them to go on sale. 

Cheers 

Joe

Good deals to be had on the BD cams at Needle Sports at the moment: https://www.needlesports.com/937/products/black-diamond-camalot-clearance-c...

Outside will do the 6 Friends for 299. A real bargain as these are, in my opinion the best cam on the market. As WC created the cam they ready do know what they're doing with them!

https://www.outside.co.uk/climbing-gear/climbing-protection/cams-friends/wi...

More than plausible - really quite likely. And you're right to point out that some of the big players (including WC) won't resling at all.

Getting my BD cams reslung was an enormous faff - both getting them to respond to me,  and then waiting for two atlantic crossings. I'll be going DMM when I eventually replace them for that reason alone. 

DMM dragons all the way, simply for the serviceability if nothing else. Never underestimate customer service on items that are going to cost, what is to me a fortune. Spending around £400 on a full set, only for that set to need replacing after 5-7 years because the slings have had it, is a false economy in my opinion. At £12 per cam for a full service from DMM vrs £70 for a new cam its worth it in the long run! You could always resling them with accessory cord of course, but it looks shit and doesn't inspire much confidence from your partner, not to mention sits poorly on the harness. Another thing to consider is the secondhand value should you decide in the future not to pursue climbing, No body sensible is going to buy a 10 year old cam with an old sling that can't be replaced (Should you be selling?)  Having said all of this BD Camalots are excellent and I actually prefer the usability of them!