I've banned myself from buying any new gear for the next two months (finances-induced nightmares, mostly self-inflicted). So as a poor and dangerous substitute, I am instead fantasising about gear that I will buy once the ban expires.
So: what would people say is the best bit of kit they've acquired in the past year?
I am still waiting on the arrival of my DMM Dragonflies, so they fail to make the cut. I'm instead going to go for the discovery (at least, for me) of Tenaya shoes.
After being a Scarpa devotee for the best part of 3 years, in particular being a fan of the Instinct Lace, but using Anasazi 5.10 pinks for longer trad routes with a lot of edging (was unimpressed with the Scarpa Techno X), I recently made a switch. This was because:
- Scarpa just wear out far too fast in the toe, and also the lace-up area seems to get tatty really quickly in the instincts
- Adidas have allowed standards to collapse in the 5.10s, with appalling quality control leading to e.g. an officially "same" size shoe being markedly bigger than the previous pair. They also wear out very fast. Not cool when you're dropping £100 on a product that needs precise dimensions, and that you expect to get decent usage out of.
Having heard good things about Tenaya, I bought a pair of Oasi to replace my busted Instincts. Although I think I went a half size too big, I rate these shoes incredibly highly. If the Instincts are 9/10, the Oasi are 10/10 (waiting to see on durability, but on functionality they are even better than the Instincts).
So impressed was I with Tenaya that I splashed out and got a pair of Masai to take over for trad exploits. If anything these are 11/10. The rubber is incredible, the fit can be dialled in perfectly, and they are comfy as hell without sacrificing performance. I feel like I can stand on anything in them, and indeed may end up just wearing them for everything other than super overhung boulders/sport climbs.
But now I've got shoes sorted, I'm keen to talk hardware. So hit me up with ideas for things I don't need, but should definitely want.