Ball nuts

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 Suncream 01 Aug 2019

I bought some ball nuts on a whim (they were heavily discounted). I haven't had a chance to climb on them yet but I've played around with placing them in a crack.

There doesn't seem to be very much information on using them on the web. Does anyone use them regularly?

I can't find anything about placing them in horizontal cracks. I don't see why this would be any worse than a nut or cam in a horizontal crack. It's not obvious to me, however, which way up they'd go. Ball down I think puts less bending force on the wires, but ball up seems more mechanically secure. Thoughts?

 thomasadixon 01 Aug 2019
In reply to Suncream:

Not used them for a while, but I’ve fallen on them many times in horizontal cracks.  Held every time.

In reply to Suncream:

> I bought some ball nuts... I've played around with placing them in a crack.

Removed User 01 Aug 2019
In reply to Suncream:

Doesn't answer you question but some good user advice.

https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/ball-nuts/

With horizontal features I've gone for the best fit rather than be concerned about ball up or ball down. Never had one let me down yet.

In reply to Suncream:

Another vote for best fit. More likely to get stuck than to fail after weighting if placed well. 

 deacondeacon 01 Aug 2019
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

If you're putting your balls in the crack you're doing it wrong! 

3
 Donotello 02 Aug 2019
In reply to Suncream:

I have some on my rack, the red blue and yellow one. Have fallen quite heavily on the yellow before and it held fine, but I had to come back with a hammer and a screwdriver to get it back out. 

Unfortunately the wire to the ball on the yellow one has now deteriorated and when I press down the wire sort of kinks on itself and I haven’t been able to place it lately so I’m thinking it may need retiring. 

As for horizontal cracks I personally would go ball up. 

Post edited at 00:14

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