Hello fellow climbers,
I'm in the market for a midweight down jacket for alpine climbing, cold belays and camping. Key features I'm looking for: weight should be in the 500-550g range, helmet compatible hood, good warmth, reasonable price (i.e. not a lot more than 300€). I live in France and often ventures in the alps where rain is not that much of a concern, so down is a good option.
I've got a Rab Microlight which I use very often for 'chilly but not too cold' conditions and a ME Citadel I use for ice-climbing and seriously tough conditions. The problem is that sometimes the Rab Microlight is just not warm enough, and the ME Citadel too bulky and heavy.
From studying the market, it seems the Rab Electron Pro and Patagonia's Down sweater or Fitz Roy are my best options. But there's little information on the amount of down in the Patagonia jackets and how warm they actually are.
Do you have any experience with these jackets? I'd love to hear your advice as this is quite a commiting buy.
I have a Patagonia Fitzroy, I love it!
Dead warm but for me most of its use is cutting around Spanish sport crags in the winter.
Theres some useful reviews on the Patagonia website with people saying what temps they’ve used it in.
I used to have an Electron Pro and now use an ME Vega. Used the Electron happily for a summit jacket in the Alps. Both nice bits of kit, the Vega is a slight bit heavier and warmer and I slightly prefer the hood when worn over a helmet. Haven't tried the Fitzroy to compare but I'm sure the Rab jacket will do the job.
I've got a patagonia down sweater (but without the hood), and it is really similar to the rab microlight in terms of warmth. Great jacket, but if you're looking for something a bit warmer than the microlight, go for something else. The rab electron pro came to mind and looks like you thought the same. I only tried one on in the shop but it seemed a fair bit bigger and warmer than the down sweater/microlight, but not quite a full size down jacket either. Check out the trekitt youtube channel, they have a full review on it. Ive not seen one in person, but I think the fitz roy is a big larger and a bit warmer than the elctron pro.
I did check the review, and the Electron Pro seems a very sensible option. However i'm a bit wary of Paul's reviews on Trekkit. They seem always a bit too enthusiastic to be completely genuine
My hearts leans toward the Electron Pro at the moment, with the Fitz Roy looking a bit too cumbersome, but I might be wrong.
I have a previous generation Patagonia Fitz Roy that I've used for alpine ski touring. From a bit of digging mine has approx 227g of 800 fill down in a box wall construction.
Compared to the Electron Pro which has approx 190g of 800 fill down is a stitched through construction.
On paper the Patagonia should be warmer both from the extra fill and box wall. Mine is the previous generation which feels like it has a lighter weight (more delicate) outer fabric although I have not had any problems with it for my usage. It looks like the newer Fitz Roy is stitched through so not sure how much use this information is to you.
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