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Advice needed: Midweight down jacket

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 HHay 25 Oct 2021

Hello fellow climbers,
I'm in the market for a midweight down jacket for alpine climbing, cold belays and camping. Key features I'm looking for: weight should be in the 500-550g range, helmet compatible hood, good warmth, reasonable price (i.e. not a lot more than 300€). I live in France and often ventures in the alps where rain is not that much of a concern, so down is a good option.

I've got a Rab Microlight which I use very often for 'chilly but not too cold' conditions and a ME Citadel I use for ice-climbing and seriously tough conditions. The problem is that sometimes the Rab Microlight is just not warm enough, and the ME Citadel too bulky and heavy.
From studying the market, it seems the Rab Electron Pro and Patagonia's Down sweater or Fitz Roy are my best options. But there's little information on the amount of down in the Patagonia jackets and how warm they actually are.
Do you have any experience with these jackets? I'd love to hear your advice as this is quite a commiting buy.
Cheers

1
 jezb1 25 Oct 2021
In reply to HHay:

I have a Patagonia Fitzroy, I love it!

Dead warm but for me most of its use is cutting around Spanish sport crags in the winter.

Theres some useful reviews on the Patagonia website with people saying what temps they’ve used it in.

 JStearn 25 Oct 2021
In reply to HHay:

I used to have an Electron Pro and now use an ME Vega. Used the Electron happily for a summit jacket in the Alps. Both nice bits of kit, the Vega is a slight bit heavier and warmer and I slightly prefer the hood when worn over a helmet. Haven't tried the Fitzroy to compare but I'm sure the Rab jacket will do the job.

 Acrux 25 Oct 2021
In reply to HHay:

I've got a patagonia down sweater (but without the hood), and it is really similar to the rab microlight in terms of warmth. Great jacket, but if you're looking for something a bit warmer than the microlight, go for something else. The rab electron pro came to mind and looks like you thought the same. I only tried one on in the shop but it seemed a fair bit bigger and warmer than the down sweater/microlight, but not quite a full size down jacket either. Check out the trekitt youtube channel, they have a full review on it. Ive not seen one in person, but I think the fitz roy is a big larger and a bit warmer than the elctron pro.

Post edited at 18:19
2
OP HHay 25 Oct 2021
In reply to Acrux:

I did check the review, and the Electron Pro seems a very sensible option. However i'm a bit wary of Paul's reviews on Trekkit. They seem always a bit too enthusiastic to be completely genuine

My hearts leans toward the Electron Pro at the moment, with the Fitz Roy looking a bit too cumbersome, but I might be wrong.

 Acrux 25 Oct 2021
In reply to HHay:

Oh I agree, you have to keep in mind that he is trying to sell it. It does give a good overview of the features though

 random_watcher 26 Oct 2021
In reply to HHay:

I have a previous generation Patagonia Fitz Roy that I've used for alpine ski touring. From a bit of digging mine has approx 227g of 800 fill down in a box wall construction. 

Compared to the Electron Pro which has approx 190g of 800 fill down is a stitched through construction.

On paper the Patagonia should be warmer both from the extra fill and box wall. Mine is the previous generation which feels like it has a lighter weight (more delicate) outer fabric although I have not had any problems with it for my usage. It looks like the newer Fitz Roy is stitched through so not sure how much use this information is to you. 

 SteveC 01 Nov 2021
In reply to random_watcher:

Would the ME Lightline be a contender?  I'm in the same position - trying to find a mid-weight down jacket and a bit bewilidered by the range available. 

 random_watcher 02 Nov 2021
In reply to SteveC:

The Lightline is a slightly lower spec (700 fill) and heavier jacket (740g)

From Mountain Equipments range I'd probably be looking at the Vega, Xeros or Kryos jackets.


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