2nd generation Nomic—follow up

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Removed User 26 Feb 2021

Hi, I was wondering, now that it’s gone a few  years, how people have moved on from the 2nd generation Nomic? I recently came into a pair, because they were cheap and I hate the handle on the current Nomic. The head/shaft creaks as discussed here several years ago. It doesn’t inspire confidence. The tool flexes when weighted. And the damn pommel doesn’t stay put and the ridiculous metal insert rattles. I know this was discussed as infinitum here years ago...but since then, did you buy the 3rd generation? Switch brands? repair it per the other Nomic thread going on? Just curious. I think I need a stiffer tool, like a BD Fuel. Just curious what ya’ll ended up doing. Thanks

 GraMc 26 Feb 2021
In reply to Removed UserLayneWC:

im wobbly head guy from other thread, still climbing on second generation nomics. They still climb mixed really well (and you'll struggle to find anything better on ice), although i do often wish they were stiffer when torquing).  Would be interested to hear if the 3rd gen model is any stiffer when torquing (but i suspect not). whats wrong with your pommel? 

unless your climbing grade X you're not going to notice any improvement to your climbing by switching tools. I think all tools have drawbacks ( e.g. I've climbed on the fuels, but find they arnt nearly as nice to climb on ice and the bulbous bit on the shaft can often be annoying when trying to get a hook in the back of a crack etc, grivel handles are stupid etc.)

In reply to Removed UserLayneWC:

After suffering wobbly heads, I moved to Cassin X Dreams, very good indeed. 

Removed User 26 Feb 2021
In reply to GraMc:

The bolt that holds the pommel: if I tighten anymore, I will break the wrench, ie it’s f’ing tight, and it still shifts. this is due to play in the interface of the pommel teeth and the teeth on that cheesy little insert. this insert rattles as well, regardless of how tight I make the pommel. it’s a shit design, really. the 3rd generation nomic has fixed teeth, not an insert. However, I find the handle on the 3rd generation to be uncomfortable. I know different tools won’t make me climb harder, that’s obvious! but I might have more fun. I did some laps on the fuels a couple weeks ago and thought they climbed steep ice just great. when leaning back to reach an overhang they didn’t flex at all. noticeable difference for me. But yeah, the 2nd gen nomic has a very comfy handle and with the pure ice pick it gets great sticks with very little effort. 

 Jeff Ingman 27 Feb 2021
In reply to Removed UserLayneWC:

I've used second generation nomics for the last 10 yrs and did a fix on the head two years ago. It started creaking during dry tooling sessions so I drilled out the top rivet, removed the head, glued it back in and installed an 8mm connector bolt were the rivet used to sit. The hardest bit was removing the head. This fix is well documented on here by cold will.

Since doing the fix the creaks have gone and the tools are sweet. They've had a lot of use since and I would buy another pair second hand rather than upgrade.

Having taken it to pieces it's obvious to me that the length of the head (very short) places weight at the very top of the shaft. This makes it wonderful to climb with, but relatively weak, especially for the bigger climber with long levers. It's a beautiful piece of kit.

Removed User 27 Feb 2021
In reply to Removed UserLayneWC:

The last 8 years I've gone with single piece tools that are stiffer and have fewer moving parts. It's not been a cheap exercise - Grivel Reparto Master Alloys and Elite Climb Raptors - but have been very happy.

I thought the Nomics were OK for their day, but the picks seemed to wear down fast, maybe just me. Never such an issue with other brands, and the armor-grade steel Elite Climb use is really good though you feel it when it's time to touch them up.


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