I've just come back from 3 weeks climbing in the Toubkal valley. We managed to jump on a load of high routes plus a considerable amount of ice climbing.
Other than the tourist routes up Toubkal and Ras, we wouldn't see anyone all day, and this was over Xmas and New year.
Des' cicerone book is an excellent guide, and I thoroughly recommend the Toubkal SE and SW ridges (D- and AD+) especially if the snow is a bit rubbish (no neve whilst we were there). Take a pair of axes and some screws as there is plenty of grade 3/4 ice surrounding the refuges - including that cool waterall from the youtube video!
The mouflon is slightly more expensive than the CAF, but the CAF was heaving and the mouflon has a log fire! And take a good sleeping bag! We walked all of our kit (tent, stove, sleeping bags etc) from Imlil to the refuges - 7 hrs and 1400m ascent - it's bearable, but you can organise mules super easy in Imlil.
If you want any more info, just PM me with your questions. I recently put a blog post up if you want to see what it all looks like at the mo:
http://alpinetom.blogspot.co.uk/
thanks, Tom