Why fixed ropes?

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IvanLi 07 May 2019

I just noticed that some notable big summits have a common practice of being set up with fixed ropes.

youtube.com/watch?v=mL9vkVl-ZPU& - here is a video of Khan Tengri climb as an example but this practice is also commonly used on almost any other mountain in the bigger ranges.

I can understand it when they place fixed ropes on the most difficult pitches in the Alps, but on the aforementioned summits it is all fixed top to bottom. This in my opinion is against the very spirit of mountaineering and also turns a physical AND technical sport into some sort of an extreme version of a treadmill.

Is it possible nowadays to climb these mountains in the proper way? I mean if there are ropes everywhere will you be allowed to only occasionally use them when absolutely needed? Any real life examples of climbing big routes without the fixed ropes by non-pro alpinists?

2
 john arran 07 May 2019
In reply to IvanLi:

It's a bit like getting up Ben Nevis. Yes, there are other routes, and some climbers will find their own way, but few people who simply want to have ticked the summit will see any merit in eschewing the well constructed and convenient tourist track.

 Webster 08 May 2019
In reply to IvanLi:

Money is why they are there... makes it easier and safer for guides and porters to drag bimblies up it. its a crying shame but thats the way of the world of comercial mountaineering

3
 tlouth7 08 May 2019
In reply to IvanLi:

I think it is less to do with the economics and more a feature of siege tactics in general. In order to put two people on the summit (whether paying or not) you need to establish multiple camps and move a significant amount of gear. Therefore a great number of trips up and down the mountain have to take place, and given the dangerous terrain it makes sense to protect those journeys.

This has always been true, the first successful Everest expedition (1953) had fixed ropes as high as Camp VII, almost to the South Col*.

I'm not sure it is now even possible for pro climbers to 'go it alone' on high peaks in Nepal following a change in the law there.

*And possibly higher, but I cannot find a source

1
 Mr. Lee 08 May 2019
In reply to IvanLi:

Khan Tengri doesn't see a huge amount of guided ascents actually, but nearly everybody uses the commercial base camps as a starting point. It's the camps that organise the fixed ropes. If you've got a decent volume of climbers attempting a given route in a season then fixing ropes is going to be the most efficient for all. That's just a practicality away from style ethics. Russia and the Stans still have more of a siege style ethic, with typically larger teams, so arguably it's in line with the typical local ethic. Also, I would hardly describe Khan Tengri as a peak swarming with climbers.

IvanLi 08 May 2019
In reply to Mr. Lee:

So, if one goes to KT these days and uses the standard camp, can they climb along the fixed lines but not use them or is it part of the deal of using the commercial base camp and being attached to the fixed lines?

 Mr. Lee 08 May 2019
In reply to IvanLi:

The normal package is helicopter flights and base camp facilities. You can do whatever you want in the area thereafter. 

 GridNorth 08 May 2019
In reply to Webster:

> Money is why they are there... makes it easier and safer for guides and porters to drag bimblies up it. its a crying shame but thats the way of the world of comercial mountaineering

I'm very cynical of commercial mountaineering but that's a little harsh.  Fixed ropes and porters were established well before commercialism set in.

Al

IvanLi 09 May 2019
In reply to Mr. Lee:

Are you familiar with the mountain? How hard is the climb without the fixed ropes? Alpine AD?

 Takein 09 May 2019
In reply to IvanLi:

I climbed Khan Tengri in 2014, solo/unguided. Guided packages are available but as Big Lee pointed out common practice is to buy base camp support that includes a helicopter ride, use of a pre-erected tent and three meals a day in base camp. Outside base camp you're on your own and can do as you please.

It is certainly not a crowded mountain. Once acclimatised, most spend one or two nights above base camp on their summit attempt so alpine style is the norm. Permanent fixed lines on Khan Tengri extend only above Camp 3 on the West Ridge (from around 6100m upwards). Whether you use them or not is up to you. In prep for the guided ascents in August, each year in July the guides will be acclimatising on the mountain, checking and/or replacing fixed ropes on the West Ridge and setting up small sections of fixed lines across any open cravasses or weak snow bridges lower down.

I never used the fixed lines for any upward progress – I certainly didn't take a jumar – I just climbed the mountain. On some steeper sections of the West Ridge I clipped myself to the fixed lines using a biner and daisy. Questionable whether it would have helped me in a fall but at least my body would be easy to find. I did however rap the fix lines on descent. Solo down climbing the 1000m West Ridge would have taken many hours and in a closing weather significantly changed the risk profile. I could have carried my own rope for the descent and thereby completely avoiding any use of the fixed lines but I was happy with my approach.

I actually felt ascending the fixed lines unguided would be a pretty risky endeavour.  Many of the fixed ropes are damaged and aren't removed, just left to rot away. The guides put a new line in place but if you're not familiar with the climb you could arrive at a rock step with a choice of two ropes to pull up on. One might be connected to an anchor, the other might be core shot or severed. Even in descent, rapping off the end of severed fixed line would not be that difficult!

As with all big peaks, there are many other routes to the summit – mostly significantly harder – where there will be little to no beta, no other climbers, no fixed gear and certainly no fixed lines. 

West Ridge is Graded Russian 5B but the technical steps are considered Scottish 3 or Alpine D. Note that it's a walk up to Camp 3 and the crux rock step may be only Scottish 3 but is at 6800m Anyhow, it was an amazing experience for me - if you're seriously considering heading out there feel free to get in touch. 

IvanLi 09 May 2019
In reply to Takein:

Thanks, huwj!

did you climb it from the North or from the South? Based on what I have seen in the Northern (solomatov) route videos, it definitely doesn't look like a walk up  to Camp 3. There is quite a bit of technical climbing on the Chapaev Peak which you climb on your way to C3.

 Takein 09 May 2019
In reply to IvanLi:

True, I climbed from the southern side the ridge. If you are looking for a less commercial experience then I think you would want to do the same as the northern base camp is larger and tends to cater more to Russian teams. I understand most international (euro) climbers use the southern base camp. My experience on the mountain would confirm this but things may have changed. 

Edited to add that you can still easily summit Chapayev from the southern side (I did as part of my acclimatisation). Although I can't comment on how difficult the climbing is from the northern camp. I believe both routes are given the same grade and so I think the most difficult section you encounter will still be the West Ridge itself.

Post edited at 20:50

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